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Routes in Orc Tower

116 orc tower rd. T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
opportunity of a lifetime, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 145 total · 2/month
Shared By: Jon Nelson on May 8, 2013
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Access Issue: October 8-9 LTW limited access. Details

Description


P1: 10b. Follow a crack/flake. The pitch has one bolt.

P2: 10c. Go straight up the east face of Orc Tower. This pitch is all gear. The photo shows the position.

Unlike other routes that go directly onto Orc Tower, this is reported to have no loose rock.

Location

Can be reached from the top of either Leave my Face Alone (11a) or Kite Flying Blind (11c) or by walking in. Also see overview on main page.

Protection

A rack of tiny gear to 4".

Photos

Mike Schmitt  
 
The first pitch is quite dirty (8/23/13), it would be fun climbing if it were clean though.

The second pitch requires a lot of thin gear (e.g. #0 and #00 C3s, micronuts). It finishes with a very burly offwidth, so don't forget to bring a #4!

There is a lot of loose rock at the base of the tower, consider only climbing this route on weekdays to reduce the risk of hitting climbers below with falling rock. Aug 26, 2013

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