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Wisconsin
> Baraboo Range
> Devil's Lake
> E Bluff 05 - Po…
> 3. Doorway Rock…
> Lower Major Mass
Crimps and Misdemeanors
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British R
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in Lower Major Mass
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Archeopteryx T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Archway Cookie T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Blue Slab T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Cat Fight T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cat Walk T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Chockstone Chimney T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Congestion Chimney T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Cookie Cutter T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cookie Cutter Direct TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Crimps and Misdemeanors T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Dippy Diagonal T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Dippy Diagonal Variation Right (AKA the Dipster) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Earnings Summary T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Easy Street T,TR 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c |
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Goodbye Youth T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Hard Times T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Innocence T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Kenosis T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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King's Corner T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Left Face of TM Overhang T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Loco Head T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Mental Block TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Microwave Dinner T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Mindless Dribble TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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No Rest For the Wicked T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Puffs Plus T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Red Slab T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Seventh Buttress 1 T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Seventh Buttress 2 T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Seventh Buttress 3 T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Seventh Buttress 4 T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Seventh Buttress 5 T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Seventh Buttress 5-1/2 T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Seventh Buttress 6 T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sure Shot TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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TM Overhang T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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West Michigan T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Wicker Man T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 55 ft (17 m) |
| FA: | ???? |
| Page Views: | 623 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Burton Lindquist on May 8, 2013 |
| Admins: | Ian Cotter-Brown, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge, Ben Strobel, Kyle Harding |
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Description
The crux is just below the ledge at 1/2 height.
Great climbing on sharp edges (very small to big) in the first half and great slab climb in the second half. FUN!
Great climbing on sharp edges (very small to big) in the first half and great slab climb in the second half. FUN!
Location
This climbs ascends the face to the right of the route "Innocence". Start far right on edges and crimps to gain a good horizontal then move left across the face until established under a neat little right facing corner. Pull edges straight up from here (crux) to gain a ledge and rest. Ascend the great slab climbing above staying for the most part in the middle and not using features off to either side. Fun Slab moves with great mantle technique needed to make it all look good.
Protection
It is a somewhat sketchy lead but is a lead. Take small to medium cams for the horizontals and then RPs and Ball Buts for the incipient cracks in between. The first 15 feet are un-protected unless the climber utilizes side gear! The upper slab has great pro in horizontals but it will always be at your feet for the hard moves.
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