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Routes in 0. Henderson's Buttress

Achille's Heel T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Bull Dog T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Henderson T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Mind Over Pinky and the Brain T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Muir T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
No Guts, No Glory T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b C0
Noonie Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Our Mine's I T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Pinky and the Brain T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Quick Silver (variation on Muir Buttress) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Two Stoned T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Type: Trad, Alpine, 120 ft
FA: Bradley White, Mike C. Robinson 5/2013
Page Views: 110 total · 2/month
Shared By: bradley white on May 8, 2013
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

2/5 is Mike's assessment of the climb up the right of Muir Buttress. Climbed
to the trees onto the classic outcrop of several giant stacked blocks. Intimidated I stayed in the left facing corner until it becomes a hard short pillar with its small square top. Very nice feature. Above's the severe crux up the short lichen covered wall. Excellent on sight lead of this, Mike. We did Muir's second pitch to the old belay. We hadn't been here before.
There's ten feet over from the old belay the bolted belay.
The first pitch to Muir's is gone. The start now is (5-8).
In 2013 I belayed Ryan as he climbed sixty feet higher above right of the top bolted belay on Muir. I refer to it as Muir direct. I couldn't get up onto the hard severe roof and Ryan rappelled down and we rappelled.

Location

Right front of Muir Buttress. Rappel at top of Buttress or continue. now there is a bolt with two old pin and new rope sling for a safer rappel.

Protection

#1 smallest cam and a regular light rack with #3 cam size have a few in that size range. Tri cams #1/2-3 are useful.

Photos

Mike Robinson
Worcester, MA
 
Mike Robinson   Worcester, MA
 
Good outing with Bradley, the first pitch is descent and exciting, mostly 5.6/5.7 climbing with a 5.9ish top out. May 8, 2013