The Voodoo Child
Avg: 4 from 2 votes
|Type:||Boulder, 15 ft|
|FA:||Brett Johnston (from Seattle)|
|Page Views:||829 total · 14/month|
|Shared By:||Noah Doherty on May 8, 2013|
|Admins:||BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall|
DescriptionThis climb is vicious. Beta is coming, so stop reading if you don't want it.
Keith broke the original starting foot and banged his chin so now the foot is a couple inches closer to your hand. It makes the first move that much more difficult. From there you hit this wierd sloper undercling bulge in a slab power move and shift your feet to two high bad poppy feet. Then you go super balanced and slow to a high really poor invisible crimp. From there I turn my right foot into the starting goodish crimp and get a toehook hand match on the wild bulge. I found this to really be the only way to get that hand off without going off balance. My arms are at full extension pretty much here. I then got my left hand to a thumbercling intermediate in another bump power move that makes you splutter and quake. I was shut down on the topout. There are just these heinous flat slopers and then a little tiny two finger crystal crimp. I think the next move is a deadpoint to these two good holds and then you top out.
This is one of the hardest slab boulders in the US.