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> Hwy 20 & N Casc…
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> Eldorado Peak
> Main Peak
East Ridge
Easy Snow
Avg: 3.4 from 136
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Routes in Main Peak
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Austera Peak T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c Easy Snow |
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East Ridge Easy Snow |
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Klawatti Peak SW Buttress T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Easy Snow |
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North Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Steep Snow |
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Northeast Face Mod. Snow |
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Northwest Ice Couloir AI2 Steep Snow |
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South Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Tepeh Towers T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c Easy Snow |
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West Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Mod. Snow |
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| Type: | Snow, Alpine, Grade II |
| FA: | D. Blair, N. Grigg, A. Wilson, A. Winder - August 1933 |
| Page Views: | 10,692 total · 80/month |
| Shared By: | Jeff Hebert on May 7, 2013 |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure at Newhalem Crags March 1st to mid-July
Details
Peregrine falcons select nest sites on cliffs in the Upper Skagit Valley, including the Climbing Management Areas of Newhalem West (Ryan’s Wall) and Newhalem East. As required in the NPS Superintendent’s Compendium, these areas will be closed to all public from March 1st to July 15th of each year, or until the young falcons have fledged or NPS staff have determined that nesting will not occur on a specific wall during this period. Access Fund, Washington Climbers Coalition and NPS partner on a volunteer raptor monitoring program to determine nesting activity. Contact the NPS and/or WCC for updates.
Description
This is a popular, technically easy climb with a classic finish on an exposed summit ridge. The summit view and knife-edge top are exquisite.
Begin at the trailhead 20 miles down Cascade River Road, backtracking a few hundred feet until reaching a large, downed tree across the stream. Cross a series of logs and follow the faint trail through boulders to steeper terrain. Follow the trail to a talus field at about 4,000 feet. Head to the top of the talus field below short cliffs and head right toward another, larger talus field (snow in early season). Continue up into an open basin at 5,400 feet and head for the left ridge with a crossing at 6,000 feet and a quick descent down a 3rd class gully to the Roush Creek basin.
Head up the basin towards Eldorado Glacier, gain the glacier, and climb to where it crests over at 7,500 feet. From here, the East Ridge should be obvious. Gain the ridge and ride it to the top.
Begin at the trailhead 20 miles down Cascade River Road, backtracking a few hundred feet until reaching a large, downed tree across the stream. Cross a series of logs and follow the faint trail through boulders to steeper terrain. Follow the trail to a talus field at about 4,000 feet. Head to the top of the talus field below short cliffs and head right toward another, larger talus field (snow in early season). Continue up into an open basin at 5,400 feet and head for the left ridge with a crossing at 6,000 feet and a quick descent down a 3rd class gully to the Roush Creek basin.
Head up the basin towards Eldorado Glacier, gain the glacier, and climb to where it crests over at 7,500 feet. From here, the East Ridge should be obvious. Gain the ridge and ride it to the top.
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