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Routes in (9) Above the Waves

BA Insanity T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cat's Away T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Climax T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cold Sushi T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cunning Linguist T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dangerous Games T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Doublethink T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fillet Show T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gold Club T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gold Member T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Golden Shower T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Goldline T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Happy Endings T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lap Dance T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Let's Do The Trad T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Love You Long Time TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Ocean's Eleven T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Orange Juice S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pearl Necklace T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Psycho Killer T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rastafarian Seabirds T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Snake Alley T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tanz en Den Mai S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Tofu Tower T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wet and Hairy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: Matt Robertson, 7/04
Page Views: 314 total, 6/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on May 7, 2013
Admins: Nate Ball

You & This Route


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Bolt Failures - Donations Help Details

Description

This is one of Long Dong's most classic thin cracks. Start at the main deck of the Cathouse, just outside the cave. Climb the slighty overhanging south-facing wall split by horizontals to the obvious ledge above. The challenges start early, with tricky protection and strenuous laybacking to the first small ledge. Mantel up, then scramble through easier ground as the crack shrinks up to the big middle ledge. Sharp holds and balancy moves get you off this ledge to some slopey horizontals. A final section of laybacking gains you some positive face holds. A short series of mantels and you are at the rappel ledge.

BEWARE! Wasps have made a nest (6/1/13) in one of the horizontals and stung someone. It was very minor, but better safe than sorry.

Location

Outside the aretes of BA Insanity, left of Love You Long Time arete

Protection

Gear to 1.5" (2x 1")
Titanium anchors (2016)

Photos

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