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Routes in Left of Orc Tower

Coach's Fables T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Front Line Assignment T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jonah Benkert's World Famous Homemade Humble Pie S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tales From Zahajko T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tour of Duty T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 5 pitches
FA: N. Rosser, J. Wyland
Page Views: 909 total · 16/month
Shared By: Jon Nelson on May 7, 2013
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

The first pitch is the same as "Tour of Duty". To repeat that info:

Start from a gold-colored bolt atop a pedestal on the left side of the wall.

P1: 11b. Bouldery start up clean rock (5.11b) then turns to fourth class for the second half of the pitch.

P2: 11b. Also a bouldery start. Go under an overhang then up to the right side of an obvious boulder to a large belay.

P3: 10b. Scale the black pillar to the base of the headwall.

P4: 11c. Here the fun really starts. 11c face climbing on an otherwise blank wall leads to a belay in an alcove.

P5: 10b. Moderate climbing to a ledge that then traverses right (5.10b) on a large rail to a belay on a large ledge with two trees. Here you can join the last pitch of "Tales From Zahajko" or rappel.

Every pitch on this route is good.

Location

The overview image shows the entire route.

Protection

Quickdraws with one optional blue tcu

Photos

Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
 
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
 
That's a pretty funny comment Tom.

Oh my though, I didn't know those bolts were rusting. Jul 20, 2015
The Crown Jewel of the Quarry routes.

Approach pitches 1 and 2: total choss.

What little redeeming qualities pitch 3 may have had are squandered on appallingly dirty and loose rock in, and proximal to the line of poorly placed bolts that invite ledge falls and avoidable awkward clipping stances on rusty non-stainless sub-grade hardware.

Pitch 4 may be worth walking to the top of the cliff and rappeling down to the hanging belay, but why bother?

A better option would be to climb elsewhere. Or consider staying home and watching TV. If you live in Seattle, you may enjoy traversing the outside of the water tower in Volunteer Park. Challenge someone to a foot race up the stairs to the top. The views are spectacular. Jul 19, 2015