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Routes in Gorilla Rock

Ant Crack, Left T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Ant Crack, Right T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Gorilla Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ko-Ko Box T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 246 total, 4/month
Shared By: Justin Johnsen on May 6, 2013
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Dirt road winter closures Details

Description

The punchline to the route name is only an ant could climb the "crack" for most of this line... though it opens up and takes fingers or toes at the very end. The crux moves are face and use smearing. Start by attaining a ledge low on the face. Walk it left (past Ant Crack, Right) to the next fracture. Work up the crack line, using things on the face, resting at the occasional tiny Phantom Spires Patented Knob. When the crack opens enough to take finger tips near the finish, the going gets easy.

Location

Facing south on Gorilla Rock, right of Ko-Ko Box. Both Ant Cracks start with the same move, then split left or right at the first ledge.

Protection

Normally toproped after leading Ko-Ko Box to the shared anchors on top of Gorilla Rock. I rated it 5.8 R as a trad lead, since there is no pro until two thirds of the way up; then micro nuts and small cams protect well to the top.

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