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Routes in The Fortress

Charlee and the Stick Factory S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Perils of Babylon S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sage Finds the Golden Stick S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Shadowboxing S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shadows on the Earth S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Solar Winds S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sun Burn S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: mike carville, kia burns, brad johnson, john robinson
Page Views: 1,353 total, 24/month
Shared By: mike carville on May 5, 2013
Admins: Aron Quiter, Kyle Bishop, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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No overnight camping on PG&E property Details

Description

climb face/cracks then traverse top to anchors over left. In Mike Carville's 1991 guide book this was a top rope climb. It is now bolted.

Location

left side of wall. See Emeralds main page. (Photos) This climb starts on the left and at the 4th bolt it crosses "Sunburn" and goes Right to top where it shares top anchors with "Sun Burn". The climb is 10c if you traverse in from the bottom from the left.

Protection

bolts

Photos

Sergey Shevelev
San Francisco, CA
  5.10c
Sergey Shevelev   San Francisco, CA
  5.10c
If you start left instead of doing "direct" start (i.e. just straight up from below the first bolt) you can avoid the very fun 11-ish crux (which is harder if you are short). Also make sure you go right when you cross lines with 11a (4th or 5th bolt, next to the small overhang). If you go left, it's basically an 11 and a much harder move. Jul 17, 2017
Caliza
  5.11a
Caliza  
  5.11a
I gotta say this route feels pretty sandbagged at 5.10c. Felt more like 5.11a. There are moves on this that are harder than anything on Supersize me, That diagonal crack after both routes split w the ring locks is pretty tough, especially if you do the non slab finish. Both routes felt about the same difficulty or only a grade difference between them. Sep 19, 2016
Kelley Gilleran
Sacramento, Ca
  5.10c/d
Kelley Gilleran   Sacramento, Ca
  5.10c/d
Jes,

There is a way to traverse to the anchor from the slab moving directly left without having to do the sketchy shenanigans on the slab. It's exposed but fun. Jun 29, 2016
Jes C.
San Francisco, CA
 
Jes C.   San Francisco, CA
 
Had a little adventure on this route so I thought I'd share so no one else ends up in my predicament. My plan was to start left, finish right (10c), which went great and was super fun... until I went around the first roof to the right, and traversed back left to the second bolt from the top (which ended up about calf level). Not realizing that the anchors were shared, I peered in vain up right on the slab for any easily reached anchors. Nope. Since the beta said stay right I made my way out onto the slab to skip the last bolt (which I thought looked like 5.11 moves) thinking I would the traverse back to the anchors. Only problem was that once you're out on the slab there is no way to tell where said anchors are. After climbing about 10 ft on dirty 5.7+ slab I made my way back left to a horn where someone(s) had left some webbing and realized I was above the new anchor with no way back down other than to clip that crinkly old ebbing and down climb to the real anchors (which I did). So, my recommendations- either be strong enough to know you can lead the last bolt on Sunburn to the anchors, or BYO webbing. But, don't avoid the route- it really is fun! Jun 29, 2016
John Robinson
Elk Grove, ca
John Robinson   Elk Grove, ca
I made changes to the topo which is in the Photo's section on the Emeralds main page which will provide better information on "Solar Wind" and "Sun Burn" Jun 26, 2016
Kelley Gilleran
Sacramento, Ca
  5.10c/d
Kelley Gilleran   Sacramento, Ca
  5.10c/d
Start left finish right .10c

Start right finish left (direct) .11b/c Sep 28, 2015
Marcus McCoy
Yosemite Valley, CA
Marcus McCoy   Yosemite Valley, CA
so, farthest left start and right option finish after the routes cross? Do I understand this correctly? Apr 11, 2015
Alan  
I'm confused. In the hand drawn mini guide solar wind is listed as 11b and is the left most bolt line. However, on MP it is listed as 10c and sunburn is listed as 11b/c. There are two bolt lines on this face however they share a 3rd or 4th bolt then they diverge again with a bolt left if a mini roof and a bolt above the mini roof on the right. Which line is actually solar wind? We did what we thought was the 11b based on the hand drawn topo clipping the left most line until they diverge, at which time we moved right to the bolt above the roof and then back left to the last two bolts and anchor. Not sure if we mixed two routes together or what but the line felt natural and the climbing was fun. Felt like possible 5.11 climbing in a few sections either way. Aug 31, 2014