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Routes in Grandeur Buttress Side

A Good First Trad Climb T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Agent Orange T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Corner Flash T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Delusions of Adequacy T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Delusions of Grandeur T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Undertow T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad
FA: G. White, J. Nelson, S. Strong '82
Page Views: 531 total · 8/month
Shared By: Jon Nelson on May 5, 2013
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

A long steep face and crack climb in the middle of Grandeur Buttress. Ends near the small tree on top. Sustained, pumpy climbing on unique rock.

The route may be revegetated and need a recleaning.

Protection

Full range of sizes, from wired stoppers to 3".

Location

From the right edge of Grandeur Buttress, at Agent Orange and Cornerflash, go downhill and left to near the center of the face. The base region may be highly overgrown. The start is significantly lower than that of the routes on the right edge.

Photos

- No Photos -
Where is this climb? Jul 4, 2017
Jon Nelson
Redmond, WA
  5.10c
Jon Nelson   Redmond, WA  
  5.10c
Hi Pawel,

Sorry, I didn't notice that the Location heading had been missing. Now it should be there. Jul 4, 2017
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
 
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
 
I think this is what I have a fixed rope on right now, work in progress, may not have been climbed for 30 years, extremely overgrown.
I uncovered 2 old pins, one came out when the block it was against came off. There were a few ancient slings on the cedar at the top that popped when I cut them. The main concern I have right now is that the entire top area seems to be exfoliating with very large loose rock. Jul 31, 2018
Jon Nelson
Redmond, WA
  5.10c
Jon Nelson   Redmond, WA  
  5.10c
Sounds great Geoff.
Doug T- had also discussed cleaning this line, but it sounds like you are the first to attempt it.
I didn't know there were loose blocks on top. I am not surprised that some blocks on the route could work their way loose. Also, I forgot about the pins. I bet they are quite rusted by now. Perhaps a picture for old times sake? Jul 31, 2018 · Temporary Report
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
 
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
 
Jon,
I climbed a few variations at the top to try and avoid the loose rock. Unfortunately even though the climbing is fun the rock is horrifying. There is a 15-20' section from the roof all the way to the cedar with refrigerator size flakes and blocks that are loose, maybe the cedar is pushing them out. I had planned on adding a anchor on solid rock above all that but am holding off, one could climb left to new anchor that Micheal added for new climb, but this may be 5.11. I am thinking of a anchor further right. Aug 13, 2018
Jon Nelson
Redmond, WA
  5.10c
Jon Nelson   Redmond, WA  
  5.10c
Wow, Geoff, it sounds like half the route can be trundled off now.
I don't recall anything seeming loose before, but I was just trying to follow Greg W- and not get too pumped.

Seems like a fairly safe place to trundle blocks though. It will be interesting to see what kind of route emerges from the dust (and the variation finishes sound interesting).

Tree roots do cause rock to loosen. So, maybe that was the cause. If we had power drills back then, maybe we would have removed the cedar and put in a more modern anchor. Aug 14, 2018 · Temporary Report
Just a quick comment (That I'll delete once the trundle dust has settled)... I've installed an anchor next to the rightward tree that had old tat on it. I assumed that this was the old "Delusions..." anchor. I've prepped, and just need to climb the line that starts with "Adequacy" and traverses under the roof then goes up to the aforementioned tree.

What I thought was the original Delusions still needs more attention with loose blocks and lots of vegetation. I've put in some time, and plan on putting plenty more in, but I think making this line safe is a long term project with my availability. I do think eventually the sculpture hiding under the veg' and blocks will show itself to be a beauty. I don't want anybody to think that I'm staking any claim on the climb redux. It's Jon's baby and I'm just one of the baby sitters. Geoff has done a ton of moss clearing and I'm super appreciative. Hopefully before the season ends, we'll have the Delusions rebirth ;-) Aug 16, 2018 · Temporary Report
Jon Nelson
Redmond, WA
  5.10c
Jon Nelson   Redmond, WA  
  5.10c
It is very nice to see this wall finally get some attention. It is now looking better than ever. Aug 17, 2018 · Temporary Report
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
 
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
 
Douglas, I think after climbing many variations and consulting the Cummins guide that the Delusions route goes to the cedar tree further left, described as middle of the wall. It makes sense too because it is the only line I can climb after cleaning the other leftward trending crack system that starts at the boulder at the base. Maybe Jon remembers?
There are two distinct cruxes. 20 feet up is a hard to figure before you pump out sequence of find the holds and move left of small maple. Then the top out to the anchor is the other crux.
I thought about bolts on this, with several spots hard to figure out how to protect, but I feel like it protects ok if you think hard enough. Several in the .5 size and the #3 camalots fill the flaring cracks well. There are great toss in over your head nuts too. Currently a couple of pins as well. Sep 2, 2018

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