Type: Trad
FA: G. White, J. Nelson, S. Strong '82
Page Views: 602 total · 9/month
Shared By: Jon Nelson on May 5, 2013
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

A long steep face and crack climb in the middle of Grandeur Buttress. Ends near the small tree on top. Sustained, pumpy climbing on unique rock.

The route may be revegetated and need a recleaning.

Protection

Full range of sizes, from wired stoppers to 3".

Location

From the right edge of Grandeur Buttress, at Agent Orange and Cornerflash, go downhill and left to near the center of the face. The base region may be highly overgrown. The start is significantly lower than that of the routes on the right edge.

Photos

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Where is this climb? Jul 4, 2017
Jon Nelson
Redmond, WA
  5.10c
Jon Nelson   Redmond, WA  
  5.10c
Hi Pawel,

Sorry, I didn't notice that the Location heading had been missing. Now it should be there. Jul 4, 2017
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.10+
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.10+
I think this is what I have a fixed rope on right now, work in progress, may not have been climbed for 30 years, extremely overgrown.
I uncovered 2 old pins, one came out when the block it was against came off. There were a few ancient slings on the cedar at the top that popped when I cut them. The main concern I have right now is that the entire top area seems to be exfoliating with very large loose rock. Jul 31, 2018
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.10+
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.10+
Jon,
I climbed a few variations at the top to try and avoid the loose rock. Unfortunately even though the climbing is fun the rock is horrifying. There is a 15-20' section from the roof all the way to the cedar with refrigerator size flakes and blocks that are loose, maybe the cedar is pushing them out. I had planned on adding a anchor on solid rock above all that but am holding off, one could climb left to new anchor that Micheal added for new climb, but this may be 5.11. I am thinking of a anchor further right. Aug 13, 2018
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.10+
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.10+
Douglas, I think after climbing many variations and consulting the Cummins guide that the Delusions route goes to the cedar tree further left, described as middle of the wall. It makes sense too because it is the only line I can climb after cleaning the other leftward trending crack system that starts at the boulder at the base. Maybe Jon remembers?
There are two distinct cruxes. 20 feet up is a hard to figure before you pump out sequence of find the holds and move left of small maple. Then the top out to the anchor is the other crux.
I thought about bolts on this, with several spots hard to figure out how to protect, but I feel like it protects ok if you think hard enough. Several in the .5 size and the #3 camalots fill the flaring cracks well. There are great toss in over your head nuts too. Currently a couple of pins as well. Sep 2, 2018
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.10+
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.10+
My work is done on this, pulled the fixed rope. There is a bolted anchor right of the cedar tree now. I left a couple of pins for now. I don't think it needs any bolts and all the loose rock is gone. Nov 11, 2018