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Routes in m. The Great Arch
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Chipped Tooth Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Chute, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Corkscrew T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Corkscrew Deluxe T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Flail Bopp Flake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A3 |
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Godzilla T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Martin's Fall T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Sunday Special T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Tree Toad Fracture T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Trick Photography (Alt 1) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Hugh Dougher, Ron Matthews |
| Page Views: | 4,626 total · 35/month |
| Shared By: | Larry S on May 4, 2013 · Updates |
| Admins: | SMarsh |
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Description
Corkscrew is a great route. The rock on top of the second pitch is high quality for the gap. Some punchy overhang moves on P1; P2 has a scary PG13/R corner off the belay, an indimidating traverse, and some overhang moves to a top out similar to Modern Times.
Scramble up 15 feet off the trail to a ledge with some trees to start.
P1. Climb a slab to a left facing corner that starts at the left end of a low roof. Climb straight up the corner, plug your gear, and pull the overhanging moves above, exiting right (crux) to a belay.
P2. Climb up the corner above on very thin gear, exit right (Mental crux, scary, great gear just after the scary part) just below the ceiling. Continue up easier ground for a bit and find a good belay.
P3. Head right below and thru a series of roofs (Fixed pin far right), topping out at a distinct step in the last roof (second crux, well protected). Belay at a set of rappel bolts and a stout cedar tree.
Scramble up 15 feet off the trail to a ledge with some trees to start.
P1. Climb a slab to a left facing corner that starts at the left end of a low roof. Climb straight up the corner, plug your gear, and pull the overhanging moves above, exiting right (crux) to a belay.
P2. Climb up the corner above on very thin gear, exit right (Mental crux, scary, great gear just after the scary part) just below the ceiling. Continue up easier ground for a bit and find a good belay.
P3. Head right below and thru a series of roofs (Fixed pin far right), topping out at a distinct step in the last roof (second crux, well protected). Belay at a set of rappel bolts and a stout cedar tree.
Protection
Micro gear to protect the first 20 feet of P2. Red and Blue Ball Nuts very useful. Many runners and gear up to 3 or 4 inches. Highly recommend using Double Ropes on this route.
To Descend, do an almost entirely free-hanging rap from the 2 bolts at the top of p3 with 2 60m ropes. You will land precisely where you started the route.
To Descend, do an almost entirely free-hanging rap from the 2 bolts at the top of p3 with 2 60m ropes. You will land precisely where you started the route.
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