Type: Trad, Sport, Alpine, 300 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: Drew Spaulding, Oct. 2012
Page Views: 101 total · 1/month
Shared By: Drew Spaulding on May 4, 2013
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Pitch 1. Start just to the left of "Transformation". Diagonal up and left on easy terrain to the bolted line above.... Quarter pad edges provide very thin and power sequences through the 2nd to 4th bolt...(5.11d). Pull up through the steep finish, and scramble up and left to the 2-bolt anchor.

Pitch 2. This is one of the best crack climbing pitches on the entire Monitor Rock. 50' of 5.9 cracks lead to the only bolt (connecting cracks) on this 130' pitch. Continue up the long 80' crack (5.10) past the tiny pine tree. It is assumed that this crack has been climbed before... (fairly new, single bolt was at top of crack...). I spent a lot of time excavating grass and earth from this crack to allow for proper jams.... It's getting better.... Classic pitch!

Pitch 3. Step up to the right past a few bolts. Climb seams and cracks leading to the right edge of the roof (old, old, pin found), and continue past a few more bolts up to the 2-bolt anchor (5.10a).

Protection

Rappel the route.

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