Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Dojo

A Kick to the Coin S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
I Fight Dirty S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wax Off S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Wax On S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Mike Cronin
Page Views: 40 total · 1/month
Shared By: BBQ on May 3, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Oh Danielson, you can tell how how strong a climber's hands are by how often he or she wax off.

Get ready to tire out your hairy palms. This climb gives you the business quick and doesn't stop until the chaffing becomes unbearable.

Oh Danielson, come spanky your wanky while you yank yourself up a fairly continuous route full of ways to further your self-abuse. Have yourself some sensual private time at this really fun, semi-secluded climb that pulls on wicked small, but awesome holds.

Great fun! A good climb in a great location for doing things that you ought to be doing away from everyone else anyway.

Location

Come on! Take the long trek to experience this piece of athletic art. Hike past the Court House Wall and The Green Mile. You might feel like the climbing disappears, and you are lost out in the middle of nowhere for a while but this climb, and it's companions are definitely worth the visit.

Gets awesome Spring sun in the afternoon, and well into the late evenings, in April and May when it's too cold to climb at Sunshine and Indecent Exposure is too cold and windy. Great early morning shade in the heat of summer.

This is Spearfish Canyon's 400th described route on Mountain Project! Keep em' coming! Keep em' climbing and don't take yourself too seriously! Keep it real and keep it fun! Create art for art's sake and enjoy the beat down and the joy a great project, like this, is going give you. And be sure to give some love and thanks to the local boys and girls who paved the way and made this Canyon one of the greatest places in the world to get your ass handed to you in the most enjoyable of ways possible.

Protection

3 bolts...but it's a good idea to take 10 quickdraws.

Photos

BBQ
 
BBQ  
 
If you're like me, it helps to double up your rack so you can fire off at both hips, and have a back-up, or two, in case you drop a draw as you gravel your way up this no rest wonder. Tough climb. Be prepared. May 7, 2013
This route is actually only 3 bolts not 10. And it's maybe 35 feet long. Still a fun climb and quite sustained, more like a roped highball. May 6, 2013