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Routes in Main Area

Amber S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Calaveras County S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Femoral Attraction S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Kermitment S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mantana S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ribbit S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Servus S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Syringapora S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Watertight S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Robert Mueller, Tom Kalakay, Beth Kalakay, Tom Jungst
Page Views: 938 total · 16/month
Shared By: Dan Bachen on May 3, 2013 with updates
Admins: grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

From the platform scramble right past a small tree, up a low 5th class slab to the base of the route on a large ledge(~30 ft no bolts or anchors).

P1: Follow the bolt line up past large crystal lined pockets to the next large ledge and a set of chain anchors. (5.8) 7 Bolts (100+ ft). Can be used to access the other upper pitches.

P2: Walk climbers left along this ledge 20 ft to a line of bolts. Climb upwards toward a gully, anchors are on your left after a shallow dihedral. Pitch 2 of Servus is the pitch that slants right and begins 25' left of the first pitch anchor. (5.10) 140 ft. Note: the bolts on the second pitch run out on an easy slab for about 30 ft before the anchors, gear if you want it is sparse.

Descent: Make 2 double rope rappels from chain anchors

There are a total of 3 separate climbs above pitch 1 of Servus. The "Direct Route" is Ribbit. Pitch 2 of Servus is the pitch that slants right and begins 25' left of the first pitch anchor, and finally the "Amber Variant" is the pitch that starts 40' left of the first anchor and goes straight up.

Location

Follow the approach trail past the toe of frog rock to the west face. Ascend a small gully to a nice graveled platform. The route is up to climber's right from here, bolts can be seen on the black streak further up the wall.

Protection

Draws, maybe a couple TCUs or tricams for the beginning or end slabs.

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