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Routes in The Icebreaker

How Much Does a Polar Bear Weigh? T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lady of the Evening T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Long Division T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Me So Harney T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c PG13
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Chris Pelczarski and Rene Ohms
Page Views: 84 total · 1/month
Shared By: Tater Tot on May 1, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

This is the nice looking crack just left of the prow. Climb the short face with a pin to get into the crack, eventually gaining a large ledge, then step left on exposed face holds to a second fixed pin. Continue upward.

The crux of this route is getting into the crack off the ground and clipping the pin. Last I was there just a few days ago, the pin was looking a little wiggly.

There is a secondary crux when attempting to squeeze into the almost offwidth chimney thing near the top of the crack.

Some spots have slightly crumbly rock. May clean up after a few ascents, if it ever gets any action!

Location

Getting off the route can be a trick. If I remember right, we down climbed some of the side of the rock and then left a sling and rappelled. We may have done a Needles Style Rappel but I seem to remember leaving webbing. You should be able to find a way off if you're familiar with getting off obscure needles summits.

Protection

One fixed piton. Bring all sorts of gear, including, I believe, even a number 4 or 5 BD Camalot. At least a single standard rack.

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