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Routes in Twisted Tree

Twisted Tree AKA Kenyon's Shoulder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a V4 6B A0
Type: Trad, Aid, Boulder, 100 ft
FA: FA Chris Pelczarski & Craig Kenyon using a should stand. FFA Jack Torness, Robbie Freidel, Chris Pelczarski & MaryBeth Wells
Page Views: 300 total, 5/month
Shared By: Tater Tot on Apr 30, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

This route was first done by Chris Pelczarski and Craig Kenyon using a shoulder stand to bypass the overhanging offwidth start. Jack Torness led the FFA. The start without a shoulder stand goes at about a V4 boulder problem.

Location

Look for the obvious direct crack right behind the Twisted Tree at the base of the spire. The overhanging offwidth section at the bottom is a dead give away.

Protection

Bring lots of C3s and small nuts. If you want to do the route in the style of the FFA, solo the beginning without any gear or a harness. Then, after passing the crux, wedge yourself into the chimney above and have your friends throw you a harness, rope, and gear. This way, you will avoid having to use any wide gear at the bottom.

Beta Bonus Clue: A number five is a tasty treat at the slab topout.

Descent is a Needles Style Rappel however you see fit.

Photos

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Mike Madsen
Rapid City
Mike Madsen   Rapid City  
Agreed and underSTANDable. Hoping to make my way out there soon. Looks like a good route for sure! Jul 4, 2013
Tater Tot
Custer, SD
 
Tater Tot   Custer, SD
 
Well, I rated it this way because there was no way to put a free rating and aid rating on mountain project. The beginning is very hard and does climb like a boulder problem. The way I graded it basically lets everyone know that the beginning is significantly harder than the rest of the route and can be bypassed with a little shoulder of a friend. If anyone can't climb hard enough, don't be afraid to get some help and enjoy the upper bit of this beautiful climb! The hard bottom is very short but very hard. Try the route and let me know what you think! Jul 4, 2013
Mike Madsen
Rapid City
Mike Madsen   Rapid City  
Just out of curiosity. If the start is a V4 boulder problem wouldn't that make this climb a 5.11 if you used the hardest move(s) to judge a climb? Like I said just curious and with all respect. None the less congrats to you Gents on what looks like a great climb. Jack free-soloed the beginning? BA Great to see new development going down in this area. Robbie always talked about how awesome it looked. I will definitely have to get up there soon. Cheers bud! May 2, 2013