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Routes in Shakers

Butter Knife T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Dark Tower T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Going Down to Harlem with a Turd in My Shorts S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Joint Effort S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little Gremlins T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nightman Cometh, The S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Pointy Little Devil S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Salt and Pepper Shaker T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Skid Marks S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Troll Toll T,S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Where You Been?! S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 200 ft
FA: Chris Hirsch & Tony Schwartz 4/13
Page Views: 853 total, 15/month
Shared By: Chris Hirsch on Apr 29, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Check NPS for Closures Details

Description

First pitch is very thin and unrelenting. Several cruxes throughout, one requiring standing up with one leg and no handholds to assist. And a vicious redpoint crux waiting to kill all your efforts. Take a no hands rest at the belay anchor and go for the top or break up into two pitches. Second half is much easier (5.10) but engaging, and a classic by itself. Difficult to grade, but possibly the hardest slab in the hills?

Location

Nightman faces the highway and starts about 60'? right of 'Real Roxanne'. Immediately right of 'Igor'. Belay from on top of highest fin at the base of the wall. Approach from the left. Two 60m rope raps from the summit.

Protection

21 bolts
Chain anchors

Photos

t.schwartz
  5.12+
t.schwartz  
  5.12+
Heartbreaker Crux!! Apr 14, 2015