Type: Trad, Aid, 2 pitches
FA: Unknown, likely explored by Ingraham et al
Page Views: 80 total · 1/month
Shared By: Robert Cort on Apr 28, 2013
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details


This is more "Organeering" than climbing, and if you only go to the Keyhole, it's just a 4th class scramble.

From the top of Bucky Blue, un-rope, and go left, scrambling over a number of bumps until you are directly on top of the keyhole. Peer down into the Keyhole!! The scramble along the ridge could likely be kept at 3rd class, and you can keep the exposure low, or you could make it more exciting (your choice). Once across the keyhole, climb a short pitch directly up a crack in the headwall to a belay in a little alcove below the next headwall (C0, a good crack climber could likely make it go free). An awkward move gets you up the next headwall, tackle one more headwall to reach the rocky summit of a little insignificant bump on the ridge. Continuing on this ridge would be a nice adventure, and could result in some difficult climbing, or scrambling to avoid what appear to be significant pinnacles.

Loose Rock Warning! This area sees little or no human traffic.

Descent: We bailed off to the left into the gully between the Citadel and Rabbit Ears Slabs (two short raps). It may be possible to rap into the descent gully right of RE Slabs, but we didn't try it. Many other variations are likely possible.


Follow the ridgeline above Buckey Blue.


Trad. No fixed gear, we found no rap anchors, but left one on a tree in the gully towards the Citadel.