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Shipyard Rock Variation
5.6 YDS 4c French 14 Ewbanks V UIAA 12 ZA S 4b British PG13
Avg: 1.8 from 4
votes
Routes in Shipyard Rock
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All Tuckered Out S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Humpbacks in Love S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Jellyfish and Condoms T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Not So Sweet T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Nutra-Sweet S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Shipyard rock T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Shipyard Rock Variation T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Spilling Waves S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Surging Wave S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Traditional wave T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Tsunami S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Tuck and Roll S,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Waves S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Waves (Variation) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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| Type: | Trad, 110 ft (33 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,348 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Wilson On The Drums on Apr 27, 2013 |
| Admins: | Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mikel Madsen, Mark Rafferty |
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Description
This route is a variation of shipyard rock. Shipyard Rock proper that is featured in the guidebooks starts in the gulley between sharks fin and humpbacks in love. This variation is on the same side as all tuckered out/tuck and roll. It doesn't go all the way to the same summit as does shipyard or waves but it would be possible to head up there once on the "false" summit. The route is fun but a little run out on suspect holds near the top hence the pg-13 rating.
Location
Locate all tuckered out. Now head up the 5th class gully as if going to nutra sweet. head right in a chimney and take this until you are at the start of tuck and roll. (it is possible to set up a top rope to all tuckered out here). now head up and just right of tuck and roll following a well defined water groove, similar to the first 40 ft of solitaire. you can tie off a knob and head up and left into the crack to place some gear with long runners and then come back down a bit to traverse right over into the water groove. take this to the summit. belay using the bomber metolious anchors of tuck and roll. a 70 meter will get you all the way back down off of those anchors.
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