Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Anvil Spire North Face

5.7, Trad, 60 ft (18 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 1.4 from 7 votes
FA: Burcham/Brennan
Arizona > Northern Arizona > Sedona Area > Sedona > Mitten Ridge > Flying Buttress

Description

A short, dirty(not loose), but interesting route with a straightforward and easy approach.
P1. Climb a corner/wide crack on the right side of the north face over sandy terrain to a ledge, traverse left to fixed anchor.
P.2 Continue left on the ledge under steeper terrain to a bulge(crux), climb the bulge and ledges to top. Sedona guidebook prompts to "hump the ridge to the top" yet I found no ridge there.

Location

Follow directions to Flying Buttress and Arch Enemy. Anvil spire is the obvious feature, detached from the main formation left of Arch Enemy. Climb is located on the north side of the spire and well shaded. Single rope rap from anchors on top.

Protection

Few med-large cams.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

North Face of Anvil Spire. Photo by Gered Ryan
[Hide Photo] North Face of Anvil Spire. Photo by Gered Ryan
Anvil spire from the approach. Its the mushroom topped spire in front of the arch. Route is directly behind the spire from this view.
[Hide Photo] Anvil spire from the approach. Its the mushroom topped spire in front of the arch. Route is directly behind the spire from this view.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Paul Zander
San Leandro, CA
  5.7
[Hide Comment] Nice little bonus scramble. I did some humping on this route for sure, but it was more like block humping than ridge humping. Some really awkward climbing on this. Theres no reason to do this in two pitches, one works fine.

Also did a super fun short .10+(??) route with 7 bolts on the spire directly facing this route. Anybody know what it is? Jan 24, 2015
mikeyrob
[Hide Comment] Paul I believe the bolted climb is called eraser head, put up my Jake Daily ( may have spelled his the last name wrong) Nov 13, 2017