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Routes in Slickrock Buttress

Choss For Your Kitten Mittens T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Daisy Duke T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Time Pain Continuum T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown 5.10 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsentimental Journey T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Jon Fike, Lindsey Hamm, NM, and Liz Schmohl, 3/13
Page Views: 610 total, 11/month
Shared By: Nik Mirhashemi on Apr 23, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Wildlife study area Details

Description

This is a stellar adventure route with some loose sections in the middle. Follow a splitter crack system through bulges and a spectacular triple roof crux. Be sure to bring your wide gear and trad anchor skills. There are no bolts on the route. It is a bit sandy, but after a few more ascents, it could be a real classic!

Pitch 1 - start up the ever steepening hand crack the widens from #1 to #3 Camalot. Pull through a couple bulges and a tricky pod section with loose rock. Set up gear belay on sloping ledge at base of gully. 5.10-, 150 feet.

Pitch 2 - carefully jam and stem up loose gully to a large terrace. It is possible to set up an intermediate belay here. Continue up short bombay crack leading to triple roofs. The middle one is wide and takes old #4 or new #5 Camalots. Pull through final roof past chockstone and continue up splitter #3 hand crack. Mantle up to a ledge and climb short chimney section to rim. Belay on trees. 5.10, 180 feet.

Location

Start at base of lichen-covered, left-facing corner on right side of buttress. Hopefully there will be sporting a plaque soon?

Descent - walk south off the rim (climber's right) and eventually traverse back under the cliff to the start.

Protection

Doubles from #0.5 to #5 Camalot with extra hand-sized pieces and possibly another #5.
Nik Mirhashemi
Telluride, CO
 
Nik Mirhashemi   Telluride, CO
 
The PG-13 rating is mostly for loose rock and runouts through first bit of pitch 2. Should be back soon to trundle some stuff. First belay is somewhat protected from rockfall, but heads up and definitely bring helmets. Apr 24, 2013