Choss For Your Kitten Mittens
Avg: 3 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Jon Fike, Lindsey Hamm, NM, and Liz Schmohl, 3/13|
|Page Views:||627 total · 11/month|
|Shared By:||Nik Mirhashemi on Apr 23, 2013|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
Wildlife study area Details
It appears that the large, blank-looking, south facing wall and all other walls downstream of this are in a designated wildlife study zone and therefore fixed anchors are prohibited. This does not apply to Slickrock Buttress.
DescriptionThis is a stellar adventure route with some loose sections in the middle. Follow a splitter crack system through bulges and a spectacular triple roof crux. Be sure to bring your wide gear and trad anchor skills. There are no bolts on the route. It is a bit sandy, but after a few more ascents, it could be a real classic!
Pitch 1 - start up the ever steepening hand crack the widens from #1 to #3 Camalot. Pull through a couple bulges and a tricky pod section with loose rock. Set up gear belay on sloping ledge at base of gully. 5.10-, 150 feet.
Pitch 2 - carefully jam and stem up loose gully to a large terrace. It is possible to set up an intermediate belay here. Continue up short bombay crack leading to triple roofs. The middle one is wide and takes old #4 or new #5 Camalots. Pull through final roof past chockstone and continue up splitter #3 hand crack. Mantle up to a ledge and climb short chimney section to rim. Belay on trees. 5.10, 180 feet.
LocationStart at base of lichen-covered, left-facing corner on right side of buttress. Hopefully there will be sporting a plaque soon?
Descent - walk south off the rim (climber's right) and eventually traverse back under the cliff to the start.