Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Burcham/Tatum
Page Views: 2,198 total · 23/month
Shared By: marcin ksok on Apr 23, 2013
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Brian Boyd

You & This Route


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Description

Old School dirty route with a bushwack approach. Only worth it you have masochistic tendencies or want to check out the ruins on the way in, shortly below the climb.
P1. Start at a small bush, follow a dirty crack/corner, move left onto a dirty/easy rib until you reach a steeper section of r. corner with grass growing out of it(crux), good pro. climb through to fixed anchor on the left or large flat ledge above(more comfortable)
P.2 Walk towards the large pod with roof over it and belay. Up a tricky friction move into the dirty pod with droppings on most features, under the roof and right across ledges to a face and over the roof(good pro), up to a tree belay. Did not climb to the top but looked like low class 5 slabs and ledges.

Location

Obvious feature in Boynton Canyon on the way to Three Amigos. After passing the resort and the house on the left head left into the bushes, make best way to a small drainage running off the south side of the dome. Follow the drainage through a lot of bushwacking, pass the 50 foot spire, some cairns and indian ruins unitl you reach a saddle. Now you have earned this route. Approach the dome look up for the fixed anchor above an obvious corner, note that the corner is not the route, the route starts further right after a long step over a split in the rock but before the gulley seperating the dome and it's smaller subfeature. It basically follows the easiest way to the top of pitch 1. Starts at the second(higher) small bush after traversing right.
Both raps reach down with single 70m rope.

Protection

Small to large cams. Probably placed 4 pieces on each pitch. Fixed anchor on pitch 1. Tree anchor on pitch 2. Did not get to the top, no idea on the anchors up there.

Photos