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Routes in Lower (CLOSED)

Berrycup T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Caboose T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Clean Crack T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crescent Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hand Jive T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Penguins in Bondage T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Unknown (by me, it's not in my guidebooks)
Page Views: 1,612 total, 29/month
Shared By: Mark Roberts on Apr 21, 2013
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

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Access issues at the Lower Malamute. Details

Description

The crux is getting your way out of the restful alcove. I guess it's also a little cruxy traversing to the anchors; you want there to be a jug for that move, but...

Anyway. Amazing route. Definitely out of bounds, you're not allowed to climb it. It's as close to the tracks as Clean Crack and Caboose are.

Location

Just past Crescent Crack (climber's left), next to a sign that tells you you're not allowed to climb on it.

Protection

So, you'd think it would take a lot of hand-sized gear, right? That's what I thought. In reality, it takes as many Grey Camalots (.4, not #4) that you can throw at it. If I went back to it I'd take 4 greys, 2 purples, 2 greens and then some hand-sized stuff. Oh, and a #5. I placed a #5 in the alcove. You definitely don't need to, but I'd just bought it and wanted to place it. Definitely extend it if you do. Chains at the top.

Photos

Mark van Eijk
  5.10
Mark van Eijk  
  5.10
Burly off-fingers splitter most of the way. You could probably protect the whole thing on nothing but #0.5 C4s. I had doubles and really wished I had at least four. #0.4s and #0.75s fit occasionally, but generally a #0.5 will fit better nearby. A #2 or 3 works well at the top pod. Solid 5.10. Apr 7, 2015
Mark Roberts
Vancouver, BC
 
Mark Roberts   Vancouver, BC
 
No, I agree Geoff. I climbed it again recently and found my own beta lacking, .5s and .75s are the order of the day. Oct 1, 2014
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.10b
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.10b
crux parts were rattly fingers for me, 3 each of .5- .75 camalots would be nice. I had 2 of each and leapfrogged them. other stuff works- #1,2 and 3, but I don't think I used anything smaller then the .5 except for a nut.
Also this has very polished quartz and is slippery at the layback past little roof, better on a cool day.
FA: Eric Weinstein, Carl Austrom, 1975, they rated it 10a then. Sep 29, 2014