Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 567 total · 8/month
Shared By: Jared Spaulding on Apr 21, 2013
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Route Description

A classic desert pitch. Chimney, OW, hands, length. Three stars here at the creek (a bit loose down low) but four stars anywhere else.

Climb a chimney flare with a hand sized crack in the back. Jam past a chockstone with a loose/hollow block on top. Climb hand crack to a wide section (a #5 BD works well here.) Squeeze up and then climb wide #1 Camalots/tight #2 Camalots to an anchor on the left.

Location

Right of Green Eggs and Ham, left of Sweedish Meatballs (about hundred feet?) Starts just left of a pinyon pine. See picture.

Protection

1 #5 Camalot
3 #4 ""
1 #3.5 ""
2 #3 ""
3 #2 ""
5 #1 ""
1 #.75

Two ropes. A seventy will not make it down. An eighty probably will.

Photos

dsimonc xx
  5.10
dsimonc xx  
  5.10
The layback up high is stellar****. Overall route steeper than it looks.
A single 80mt rope will leave you wanting just 2 more, but doable. Nov 17, 2017