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Regular Route

5.5, Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches,  Avg: 2.2 from 39 votes
FA: Boone, LaRue
California > Sequoia & Kings… > Little Baldy
Warning Access Issue: Always check SEKI road conditions and peregrine closures DetailsDrop down

Description

This is a great route to practice leading or following trad climbs. It climbs a ramp up across the face of the dome.

Location

Once you reach the rock, follow the base of it up and left until you see the obvious corner/ramp trending up and right.

An alternative approach is to take Little Baldy trail, leave the trail just before the dome and descend along the base of the west face until you see it.

Protection

Set of cams and nuts, it'll take all the gear you can throw at it.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Reid taking an alternative finish on a foggy day
[Hide Photo] Reid taking an alternative finish on a foggy day
It's not too hard to find
[Hide Photo] It's not too hard to find
Starting up the final slab, P3
[Hide Photo] Starting up the final slab, P3
The Regular Route, L to R angling crack, an easy 3 pitch ramp up the west face of LB.
[Hide Photo] The Regular Route, L to R angling crack, an easy 3 pitch ramp up the west face of LB.
Was my son’s first multi-pitch lead. Was an easy route that was easy to protect. Hardest part was avoiding plants and grass.
[Hide Photo] Was my son’s first multi-pitch lead. Was an easy route that was easy to protect. Hardest part was avoiding plants and grass.
Pitch 2. Some grass and moss in the crack near the top of this pitch you have to deal with.
[Hide Photo] Pitch 2. Some grass and moss in the crack near the top of this pitch you have to deal with.
Start of Route. Location: about 1.65 miles up the Little Baldy Trail take a right and head down along the face till you find the route.
[Hide Photo] Start of Route. Location: about 1.65 miles up the Little Baldy Trail take a right and head down along the face till you find the route.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jillian1701 McCumber
Irvine, CA
[Hide Comment] Great multi-pitch for a beginner looking to build confidence. Aug 3, 2014
Safty Third
San Diego, CA
  5.1
[Hide Comment] Extremely easy for the grade. It was much easier then The Trough (5.4) at Tahquitz. You can probably do in one long pitch with a 70 and solo or simul off the slab walk-off. Looks like it eats smaller gear and super easy to protect. Aug 17, 2016
Ian Gunn
New Paltz, NY
  5.6
[Hide Comment] So AWESOME!
I'm a bit of a timid climber and I low key had the time of my life on this route.
we parked basically right underneath it and did a steep but manageable approach to the base, basically right across the road, versus the little baldy trail.

I ran my 60 almost to the end on the first two pitches, I'd probably suggest a 70. once you top out the 2nd (or maybe 3rd) onto the face, make sure you have a few micro cams, as that is the ONLY gear available to bring your second up on. Easy slabbin to top it all the way out, and a quick jog back down to the road. Fuckin sweet! Dec 13, 2023