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Routes in The Medicine Man

Double Decker V2 5+
Dr. Decker V1 5
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Type: Boulder, 20 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 127 total · 2/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Apr 20, 2013
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15 Details

Description

An excellent highball on the Medicine Man boulder. This is probably the best problem at Indian Creek in the easy-moderate range.

The original starting hold broke off a few years ago. You can still begin standing with a sidepull edge at around V3, or begin lower on the original hold which is a bit harder. The easiest and least contrived way to being is by just doing a short hop to the juggy rail. How you start is really inconsequential as the problems character lies in the upper section.

Climb up the corner on good jugs and edges for feet. Several feet up the good holds run out and you must reach up and left to an edge. Get your feet up over the steep section and then feel around over the top to find the some good holds and mantel over. The upper crux is probably only 5.10c (V0+), but comes a ways off the deck. Having stacked pads is nice.

I think the easiest way down is to downclimb the arete to the right. At the ledge, traverse left a short ways and then continue downclimbing. It's also possible to downclimb a very high corner on the south side of the boulder, or butt-scoot across a fallen tree branch which is resting on the north side of the boulder.

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