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Routes in Punta Fiames

"Spigolo Jori," SE Arete T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
South Face, "Via Commune." T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 1300 ft, 15 pitches
FA: J.L. Heath, Antonio Dimai, and Angelo Verzi July, 1901.
Page Views: 291 total, 5/month
Shared By: Rodger Raubach on Apr 20, 2013
Admins: Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath

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Description

The route shares the first 4 pitches with the "Spigolo" Route, and a major traverse ledge is followed to the left until a bolted anchor is reached. (ca. 25 meters). Some relatively unprotected face is followed upwards (20 meters) to another stance (5.5,bolt). Another pitch diagonals L, unprotected face (5.4-5.5, Bolt). The next pitch (crux) is a traverse to the right and a belay stance at the base of a chimney (5.6, bolt). The chimney is followed upwards for 2 pitches, and after skirting a small roof at it's left edge,traversing into another short chimney, where the difficulties begin to ease. Aim towards a small notch in the N. Ridge where the route terminates after another 4-5 pitches.

Location

The route is reached by parking near the Hospital and strolling over the rising meadows to the R. base of the wall. Climbers path is evident.

Protection

All belay stances are bolted. Very little fixed protection. Bring a normal rack with some larger cams up to #3 Camalot.
This route is listed in Classic Dolomite Climbs, Anette Koehler/ Norbert Memel, Baton-Wicks London, (1998).
The Via Commune is route #50, and a good topo is included therein. My description above is from my first-hand experience on the first 4 pitches before traversing over to the "spigolo." Maurizio de Zanna gave me a rudimentary topo and some beta at the time. Said it was very unprotected, but the climbing was fairly easy and straightforward. As a general rule, the "Spigolo Fiames" is more popular, but the "Via Commune" isn't a bad alternative. Apr 20, 2013