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5.4, Trad, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 1 from 2 votes
FA: Team Asshole: Josh Lyons, Clint Casey
Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Sugar Crack Buttress
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / 2020 Update Details


So I'm not sure if this route had been done before. I though I would add it to the page, because it's a good way to get up the top of Sugar Crack to top rope it. It's also a good/easy way to get to the top of the crag.


Sugaree starts 15 feet to right of Sugar Crack. There are two hand cracks that access the slab, and we took the right of the two. Once on the slab, move up and left, and protect in a few horizontals. At around 50 feet, you reach a broken ledge just below another slab with a hand crack. Go up the hand crack to the top.


Standard rack.

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Clint Casey on the upper hand crack.
[Hide Photo] Clint Casey on the upper hand crack.

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Denver, CO
[Hide Comment] This is a pretty cool route. A bit dirty right now, but after it sees some traffic, it could shape up real nice. May 28, 2014
Glen Charnoski
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] My friend was leading this route when a crazy guy came flying down the canyon, running over my rope, flubbering something like "I own this rock" and "If you don't leave now, I'm calling the Sheriff"! (who's probably his neighbor he makes backyard gin with), but anyway, IF you want to climb this, park way down the road and gear up there, then come storm the rock and move as fast as possible! If the Sheriff comes, tell him the land is a public CDOT roadcut, because that is what we think it is (but I don't argue with a barrel of a shotgun. We left.). Apr 20, 2016