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Routes in Sugar Crack Buttress

Rubberneck Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sugar Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Sugaree T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Team Asshole: Josh Lyons, Clint Casey
Page Views: 501 total, 9/month
Shared By: J.Lyons on Apr 19, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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2 Opinions

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

So I'm not sure if this route had been done before. I though I would add it to the page, because it's a good way to get up the top of Sugar Crack to top rope it. It's also a good/easy way to get to the top of the crag.

Location

Sugaree starts 15 feet to right of Sugar Crack. There are two hand cracks that access the slab, and we took the right of the two. Once on the slab, move up and left, and protect in a few horizontals. At around 50 feet, you reach a broken ledge just below another slab with a hand crack. Go up the hand crack to the top.

Protection

Standard rack.

Photos

Glen Charnoski
Boulder, CO
Glen Charnoski   Boulder, CO
My friend was leading this route when a crazy guy came flying down the canyon, running over my rope, flubbering something like "I own this rock" and "If you don't leave now, I'm calling the Sheriff"! (who's probably his neighbor he makes backyard gin with), but anyway, IF you want to climb this, park way down the road and gear up there, then come storm the rock and move as fast as possible! If the Sheriff comes, tell him the land is a public CDOT roadcut, because that is what we think it is (but I don't argue with a barrel of a shotgun. We left.). Apr 20, 2016
MAKB
Potrero Chico, MEX
 
MAKB   Potrero Chico, MEX  
 
This is a pretty cool route. A bit dirty right now, but after it sees some traffic, it could shape up real nice. May 28, 2014