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Watchtower Standard Route
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 3.1 from 68
votes
Routes in The Watchtower - Lower
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Canary, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Don't Look Down T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Joker, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Mothers Day T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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North Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Shelob's Lair T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Thief, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a X |
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Watchtower Standard Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 4,144 total · 35/month |
| Shared By: | Jason Albino on Apr 19, 2013 · Updates |
| Admins: | GRK, Zach Wahrer |
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Description
Between Dog Buttress and The Joker you'll find a solid flat spot to belay this route (all these routes are right of Mother's Day). The first pitch doesn't look like much, and in fact is dirty and the solid pro opportunities are limited. Eyeball this first pitch closely to see if you're comfortable leading with minimal pro (probably goes at 5.6 depending on how creative you are with routefinding).
If you do, you'll be rewarded with the excellent final two pitches:
P2 has the crux - a thoughtful stem-left, then mantle sequence through the route's sole roof. After gaining the belay, P3 is an excellent, non-grunty chimney with great stem rests & pro, and several options for tackling its vertical.
If P1 were as good as P2 and P3, it might deserve four stars for the sheer fun and solid pro.
Rap the route via fixed bolts. A great afternoon multi in Gallatin Canyon if you get a late start or are looking for a mellower day, since it requires less approach hiking that most of the routes on the adjacent formations.
If you do, you'll be rewarded with the excellent final two pitches:
P2 has the crux - a thoughtful stem-left, then mantle sequence through the route's sole roof. After gaining the belay, P3 is an excellent, non-grunty chimney with great stem rests & pro, and several options for tackling its vertical.
If P1 were as good as P2 and P3, it might deserve four stars for the sheer fun and solid pro.
Rap the route via fixed bolts. A great afternoon multi in Gallatin Canyon if you get a late start or are looking for a mellower day, since it requires less approach hiking that most of the routes on the adjacent formations.
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