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Routes in The Shame Wall

All Men Are Mortal S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Buff Puff S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Maxwell House S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
More of the Shame S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Send in the Frowns S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Shame is a Game S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Taken, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unknown 2 S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown 3 S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unknown Choss S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wall of Shame S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Bill Boyle
Page Views: 98 total, 2/month
Shared By: bheller on Apr 18, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

Four well-spaced bolts of easy climbing lead to a roof (crux) requiring powerful pulls on small holds if one is to surmount. Weird technical face climbing on broken crimps left of the bolts are next. Now up and back right to another roof where another series of powerful and (by now) pumping edges guard a difficult clip. Try to sneak out a good shake out above, as the climbing is sustained and a bit cryptic till the chains. A good endurance route at the grade- feels long for AF standards. The bolting style/placements date this route (along with the SMC hangers. (late 1980's?)

Location

The best approach for this route is to beat up the scree slope to the Shame Wall (behind, but to the right of the outhouse), and when you reach the Shame wall, trend down hill (left) 50 feet or so to a small ledge area above a steep vegetated slope. Belay here- there are 3 routes and All Men Are Mortal is the middle line. Watch the potential ground fall getting to the second bolt.

Protection

9 Bolts all the way (a bit spaced). Anchors at top.

Photos

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bheller
SL UT
 
bheller   SL UT
 
For hard 12b's don't forget Merciless Onslaught or Sharkfigher! Apr 28, 2013
Sweeet!!! I've always thought TYTBH as a 12b. At the moment, off the top of my head, I would say that Beehive is one of the hardest 12b's in the canyon. But for me the honor of the hardest would have to go to Secret Weapon on The Division Wall with Book of Condolences coming in a close second. Apr 23, 2013
SM Ryan
  5.12a/b
SM Ryan  
  5.12a/b
Darren
Although, I think AMAM is 12a I would not put someone breaking into 12a on this climb. There are other climbs more suitable.

Too Young to be Human- I am short (5'1") so I thought it was closer to 12b. Comparing it to other climbs in the 12a range, it was a harder redpoint for me than Liquid 0, Naked Nebulus, Pig Pen, Isotoaner Moaner, Pocket Debris, Mandala and Step Right Up. And I found it a harder than Beeline (is this still considered a 12b at Billboard??). However, there are some stout 12Bs at Hardrock- Dreadlocks seems really height dependent and Beehive is really hard now that the holds broke at the start. Apr 23, 2013
It is the middle line.
The line to the left is the old Boyle line. The line to the right is Trent's line and I was told it was rated 12b in an email.
When I spoke with Bill, he said that when he rated AMAM 12a/b, he felt that the grade was somewhere between the two letters.
I climbed AMAM around 20 years ago with Mike Hunter, Jacinda's husband. I thought it was a stout 12b. Mike hiked it and thought that it was 12a.

Now that we've thoroughly muddied up the grade on AMAM...
What do you guys think the grade is of Too Young To Be Human? :) Apr 22, 2013
SM Ryan
  5.12a/b
SM Ryan  
  5.12a/b
If I recall (I have not been up there since 2011) it was the middle line. The only reason I commented is that the first 2 times on it I thought it was really hard and then I found this small dirty/mossy hold and cleaned it off. It might be hard to believe, but this one hold made the crux about v2-v3 ish instead of v4ish for me and 12a made sense.

Anyways, I wish the fit logic worked but I am pretty average. Apr 22, 2013
bheller
SL UT
 
bheller   SL UT
 
I suppose I could have been on the wrong line... but it was certainly the center of the three. The route that I was on pulled the first roof (crux) about 4 feet to the right of the bolted line to its left (what I thought was the unfinished Boyle 12c), and paralleled it on the weird broken face above. At the second roof/tiers the route I was on diverged more to the right and finished much higher up on a large refidgerator like rectangular block with anchor bolts over the lip on the ledge. I also saw Trent Baker's bolted line to the right of the route I was on- it was chalked at the base as 12+ and the hangers are new and shiny. I guess the only question is "is AMAM the left line or the center of the 3?" Starting with the premise that AMAM is the center line...Perhaps our logic could go like this: SMR is fit and found it 12a; Bheller found it 12c; therefore Bheller is not fit... Apr 19, 2013
SM Ryan
  5.12a/b
SM Ryan  
  5.12a/b
Brian- Bill Boyle left an undone 12c and trent Baker put in another climb by AMAM that is 12c-ish. Maybe you are mistaking the lines?? . All men felt 12a to me. If I recall there is a dirty pocket that is hard to see that make the crux a v grade easier. And after pulling the crux I was able to get a really good rest so it did not have an endurance factor. Ymmv ..... Apr 19, 2013
bheller
SL UT
 
bheller   SL UT
 
The guidebook listed this as 12a/b. I say its fair at 12c, and it seemed notably harder than I remember 40oz to Freedom feeling at the Bingo Baby Wall.

Again, a good endurance oriented route for the grade. Apr 19, 2013