Type: Trad, Sport, Alpine, 300 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Drew Spaulding, Chris Bonaiuto, May 2012
Page Views: 292 total · 4/month
Shared By: Drew Spaulding on Apr 18, 2013
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Pitch 1 - Climb the wide looking hand crack to a 2 bolt, 5.11b crux. You can also continue out left up the crack as an easier variation at 5.8. Scamper up moderate ledges to the 2-bolt anchor above.("Heart Of Gold Ledge"-this is the best anchor to rappel to from Routes 1,2,3,4 and 5! This is the best rappel to the ground...)

Pitch 2 - Climb straight up through the 2 roofs above(5.11a) and continue up the beautiful bolted line on high quality, glacially polished granite.(5.10+) ...A few pieces of gear in the beginning and at the end of this pitch brings you up to the 2-bolt anchor.

Pitch3-Follow bolts up under the roof(5.10d) and plug some gear before pulling the lip(5.10c). A thin finger size seam leads up to the large ledge at the top 2-bolt anchor.


Each pitch requires gear placement. An assortment of nuts and a single rack of cams should suffice.... 2-bolt anchors at the end of each pitch allow for a direct rappel descent. To climb to the summit would require another pitch at 5.5 for about 150-200 more feet....