Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Sacred Cow Wall

Calm as a Hindu Cow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Coco's Boathouse T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cowch Potato T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Deal With It T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fatted Calf T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Have a Cow T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Karin's Corner T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Milk Box, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Needs Pineapple T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sacred Cow T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Sample the Sausage T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Steve Carruthers Memorial T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Styminger, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Surf and Turf T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Twin Cam T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unknown Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Vegetarian Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Luke Stefurak
Page Views: 1,474 total · 23/month
Shared By: Luke Stefurak on Apr 16, 2013
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Surf and Turf aka Vaca Desesperada involves some tricky mantels to access a gradually widening splitter.

Climb past tricky moves and many bolts to access the flare below the splitter. Swim up and climb fingers until your feet reach the top of the flare.

Off-fingers locks with bad feet lead to finger stacks and eventually thin hands.

Placing gear is challenging along with the guarantee that everyone will find a bad size.

Finish the climb with crisp glorious #1 camalots which widen to hands at the anchor.

Location

On the right side past Fatted Calf but before Have a Cow (the super splitter off-width).

Protection

Five closely spaced bolts lead to a splitter that widens from thin fingers to thin hands. A #3 camalot protect the pod between the face climbing and the splitter.

My redpoint rack was 1 each .4 &.5 C4, 1x 1.5 friend(.75 C4 works too), 2x #1 camalot, 1x #3 camalot.

For the onsight/first go I would bring doubles or more in the .5 and .75 size. A #2 camalot also goes in near the top, if you don't want to run it out to the anchor.

Photos

Devin Fin
DURANGO
Devin Fin   DURANGO
i think the full on look of this bad mother will keep folks off it looks like you did a great job of cleaning this.. im a loco so if you would like me to put a small plaque letting folks know that you are really wanting to be the first man up the route... i will do so as i will be up their this weeknd for my red point of S.COW as i fell off the top an did not send... let me know just a thought... cheers DF Apr 16, 2013
Luke Stefurak
Seattle, WA
  5.12+
Luke Stefurak   Seattle, WA
  5.12+
Sure, if you want to put another plaque that says "Closed Project" or something logical that would be fine. There is a plaque that says Surf and Turf at the base right now.

Good luck on Sacred Cow, that is a fine route!! By chance were you at the Cliffs of Insanity last Saturday? Apr 16, 2013
Devin Fin
DURANGO
Devin Fin   DURANGO
yes sir had to do some research on a climb. an make sure some of my rout's were not damaged by the 2012 rock fall. Apr 17, 2013
Luke Stefurak
Seattle, WA
  5.12+
Luke Stefurak   Seattle, WA
  5.12+
Very cool. I was trying Broken Brain. I think we chatted with you and a lady friend a few times. The Six Fingered Man looks pretty cool. More of .5's or .75's at the crux? Nice and spiltter, good find!! Apr 17, 2013
Devin Fin
DURANGO
Devin Fin   DURANGO
.75 camlots .. good show by you an yer lady on Broken Brain ... o an have a green alien for the top of "Six Fingered man" cheers.. DF Apr 18, 2013
This thing looks rad. Did it get it done yet?

Maybe not the biggest deal on a far away cliff like SC, but I humbly suggest adding a can of brown spray primer to you bolting kit. Nov 25, 2013
Luke Stefurak
Seattle, WA
  5.12+
Luke Stefurak   Seattle, WA
  5.12+
At the time I was pretty obsessed and sad that I didn't have enough time to get it done. That's the main reason I entered it in MP.com I also made a plaque with a grade at the base, which would make it seem like I sent.

I'll get a can of paint for when I go back. What brand/type do you like? Painted hangers has not lasted in the past, I assume i'm doint it wrong...

I'm not very good at the rattly finger size. Campusing big .5 camalots seems to be the crux on this one. Perhaps you can lay it back... The face climbing is pretty interesting too.

Chris, I didn't make it back to IC. Thanksgiving week ended up being pretty cold anyways.

If you wanted to get on it, then go for it. Otherwise I'll have hope that I will make it out in the spring. Dec 12, 2013
I just use a brown primer available at any hardware store. Really, it's about taking the shine off, so they don't have to look perfect. Like I said, it's not that big of a deal so far out. More of a good habit to get into.

I don't need to get on that route, nor does anybody else.

Did you get back this spring? Apr 17, 2014
Luke Stefurak
Seattle, WA
  5.12+
Luke Stefurak   Seattle, WA
  5.12+
I finally made it back and finished this thing off. Hopefully people will check it out! Apr 3, 2015

More About Surf and Turf

Printer-Friendly