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Routes in Sacred Cow Wall
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Angus Herder T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Calm as a Hindu Cow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Coco's Boathouse T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cowch Potato T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Deal With It T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Enlightenment T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Fatted Calf T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Have a Cow T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Karin's Corner T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Milk Box, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Needs Pineapple T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Out To Pasture T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Sacred Cow T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Sample the Sausage T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Steve Carruthers Memorial T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Styminger, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Surf and Turf T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Thumbstacks, Ribeyes, and Sundresses T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Tungo T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Twin Cam T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Vegetarian Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
| GPS: | 38.14011, -109.58944 |
| FA: | Luke Stefurak |
| Page Views: | 2,934 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | Luke Stefurak on Apr 16, 2013 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities! Raptor Closures!
Details
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas.
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
Description
Surf and Turf aka Vaca Desesperada involves some tricky mantels to access a gradually widening splitter.
Climb past tricky moves and many bolts to access the flare below the splitter. Swim up and climb fingers until your feet reach the top of the flare.
Off-fingers locks with bad feet lead to finger stacks and eventually thin hands.
Placing gear is challenging along with the guarantee that everyone will find a bad size.
Finish the climb with crisp glorious #1 camalots which widen to hands at the anchor.
Protection
Five closely spaced bolts lead to a splitter that widens from thin fingers to thin hands. A #3 camalot protect the pod between the face climbing and the splitter.
My redpoint rack was 1 each .4 &.5 C4, 1x 1.5 friend(.75 C4 works too), 2x #1 camalot, 1x #3 camalot.
For the onsight/first go I would bring doubles or more in the .5 and .75 size. A #2 camalot also goes in near the top, if you don't want to run it out to the anchor.
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