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Routes in Lyseveggen

Sort/ hvitt (Black/ white) T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 2000 ft, 16 pitches, Grade IV
FA: R. Caspersen/N. Björnerstedt/E. Broch Johnsen 1997
Page Views: 130 total · 2/month
Shared By: Ian Hanson on Apr 16, 2013
Admins: Michael Sullivan

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Direct line up solid rock. Relatively sustained climbing the entire way. The route follows a dihedral system between an even bigger dihedral and a nice looking crack in white rock. Good protection along the entire route, the crux moves can easily be aided through.

Pitch by pitch:
Good bivy spot at the base of the climb.
1. 50m 5.4 Climb towards the big ramp that leads to the dihedral. Good stance at the base of the ramp.
2. 15m Easy scrambling Continue up to the base of the dihedral.
3. 40m 5.11a
4. 50m 5.10b
5. 45m 5.8
6. 50m 5.8
7. 50m 5.10d
8. 15m 5.10d
9. 30m 5.6
10. 50m 5.9
11. 45m 5.10b
12. 50m 5.10c
13. 50m 5.10d
14. 40m 5.11c
15. 20m easy scrambling
16. 35m 5.8


About 100 yards to the left of the start of Lysediagnolen


Solid pro the entire way up. Bring a full set of nuts and cams including some bigger sized cams.