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Routes in Nordveggen (The North Wall)

Angsten eter sjelen (The Anxiety eats the soul) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A3+
Fjordcruise T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b A2+
Kayser Söze T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A3+
Mamma T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A3+
Nordøst Passasjen (The North East Passage) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A1
Variation to Graceland Ledge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2
Type: Trad, Aid, 1000 ft, 9 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Gunnar Karlsen/Hjarrand Julsrud 2000
Page Views: 164 total · 3/month
Shared By: Ian Hanson on Apr 15, 2013
Admins: Michael Sullivan

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Description

9 pitch variation that leads to Graceland Ledge from Coolio Ledge in between Fjordcruise and Kayser Söze. Shares the first two pitches of Kayser Söze.

Pitch by pitch:
1. 30m 5.4
2. 35m 5.8 Coolio ledge Bivi. The variation starts up the left-hand side of Coolio ledge.
3. 30m 5.9 Climb up to a small ledge.
4. 35m 5.6 A1 Follow the dihedral up to a good ledge.
5. 45m 5.4 A1 Climb up and past a small ledge to the belay just to the bottom left of a dihedral.
6. 40m A1 Climb up to the left of the dihedral and pendulum to the left to a crack that leads upwards. Traverse right, to a belay on a ledge.
7. 25m A2
8. 50m A2
9. 35m A1 GRACELAND!

The upper pitches of Fjordcruise 5.10d A2+ (to the left) or Kayser Söze 5.11a A3+ (to the right) can be combined with this variation via Graceland Ledge.

Location

Between Fjordcruise and Kayser Söze. Starts at Coolio Ledge.

Protection

Big wall gear, lots of wires and cams, 60m rope

Photos

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