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Routes in Southwest Corner

Bat Shit Crazy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Birthday Pickle T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bolder Problem in Space (free) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Boulder Problem in the Sky T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Golden Showers T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Great Gig in the Sky T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Hanging Gardens T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Hard Up for Cracks T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lopper, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
S.O.S. T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shithouse Rat T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Under the Big-Top T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Vaporizer, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
White Powder! T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 240 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Shannon Stegg, Will Loftus, Amy Colburn
Page Views: 1,577 total, 28/month
Shared By: amy colburn on Apr 15, 2013
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Seasonal Falcon Closure Details

Description

1. Climb the first pitch of Boulder Problem in the Sky and belay at the fixed anchor. (5.8)
2. Climb straight up from the belay and get a piece under the big block. Work up and right, laybacking the big flake, and reach back left to clip the bolt. Continue up the obvious weakness, right and then up to the roof. Traverse left just under the giant roof, with good gear, all the way to the end. Belay here in this spectacular position on a large horn with a fixed anchor. A double rope free rappel gets you back to the ground. (10+)

Location

Start on the big ledge below the corner (See the approach description for Boulder Problem in the Sky). Double ropes required (to get down).

Protection

One bolt. Lots of small to medium sized pieces for the traverse.
nbrown
western NC
 
nbrown   western NC
 
Fun climb, but careful with clipping the bolt - a protrusion of rock below the hanger threatens to break your carabiner. Jan 7, 2017
TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
  5.10
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
  5.10
Fun addition to the area. I thought the difficult climbing was over after the bolt. It didn't feel as sustained as other 10+'s. Lots of great stances, hand holds, and gear. The exposure was really good too! Someone added a new anchor at the end of the traverse, which makes getting off a lot easier minus the hanging belay. The alcove to the right would have been a much better spot for anchors. Apr 2, 2015
Climbed it yesterday - I seconded - I figured that the crux would be the layback but that part was actually very fun and straightforward 5.10+ move. The traverse is good but it's sustained and the footwork is tricky and you should make real sure to put in a lot of gear - - it's there and your second will need / want it. The moves on the traverse are probably no harder than 9+ / 10a but it is so sustained, plan on it feeling like 10c for sure. May 24, 2013
BirminghamBen
Birmingham, AL
BirminghamBen   Birmingham, AL
Nice.....another good rainy day route! Apr 17, 2013
RadDawg
NE, GA
RadDawg   NE, GA
Nicely done.

Like the name. Apr 16, 2013
amy colburn  
 
FA was on 11/9/2012. Apr 15, 2013