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Routes in North Eastern Buttress of Bridge Mountain

Dogleg Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hodor Said Hodor T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 500 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: Matthew Morriss and Jack Lazar
Page Views: 830 total, 15/month
Shared By: Morrismc on Apr 15, 2013
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Red Rocks has got to be one of the few climbing areas so immediately proximal to a big urban center where a climber can still say “well that crack looks cool, it’s not in the guide book, lets go climb it!” and still discover a fun first ascent. This climb was super fun, provided adventure, thoughtful climbing, SHADE, and good views. We think this is a first ascent as we could find no other reference to it, but if someone else climbed it way back when, we’d love to hear about that adventure!

Pitch 1: (The first pitch of Dogleg Crack) The pitch that climbs the vertical and then right leaning crack. Fun jams and solid face holds with good protection makes this pitch one of the most fun of the climb! Belay on a great ledge in steep corner. 40 m 5.7.

Pitch 2: Climb right facing corner just off of the ledge. Follow this crack for 20 m, avoiding the roof on right. As terrain becomes easier, move right following thin patina face climbing. Climb through single small tree wedged in crack, pull the tree! And belay on awesome ledge with great views! 35 m 5.7.

Pitch 3: Move up 10 feet from anchor and then traverse right on fun slabby moves. Follow horizontal crack right for ~40 ft until easier ground appears above. Then head straight up to large ledge with trees, passing by the first ledge with large blocks, but no trees! Keep going, it’s worth it. Belay at base of next cliff. 30 m 5.7.

Pitch 4: Move up from ledge to the right of three obvious cracks. Pull awkward fist crack (5.9) up onto ledge. Ledge your way up and then left at the back of the ledge, then continue on upward. Belay at large tree that was visible from the ground. 20 m 5.9.

Pitch 5. Walk back from tree to right facing corner that goes straight up. Tenuous moves on thin edges (5.8) leads to easier ground. After topping out walk back for good belay spot on HUGE ledge. 20 m 5.8.

Congratulations you’ve made it to the top of Hodor Said Hodor! Enjoy the ledge, keep going up and put up your own new route! Or make your way down the “obvious descent” gulley to the right.

Descent: Make your way down and to the right. Following the largest gully. Eventually the gully cliffs out on the right, there is a smaller gully to the left, follow this gully through thick trees. You should reach our rappel station (slung trees with biner). Rappel for 20 meters and then pass large broken tree (here it gets interesting). Move rappellers right into the gully and still further into the chimney on the right side of the gully, continue down until you find firm ground in a tight slot. Careful pulling those ropes!

Now it gets fun!

Move down the easy ground in the gully until you reach a thread through with 6mm cord and a rap ring. Rappel through chimney to terra firma! Walk around the base of the cliff to grab your gear

Location

Approach: park in the Icebox Canyon parking lot and follow the main trail for anywhere to a quarter mile to half a mile. There are several “trails” that peel off to the left and descend to the creek. Cross the creek and choose your own adventure to approach the buttress. The first pitch is identifiable as it is behind a large white boulder. Climb up to a ledge just below the first pitch.

Protection

A single rack to 4 should suffice + RPs.
All natural anchors
Morrismc
Portland, Or
 
Morrismc   Portland, Or
 
Mr. Wilder,
Thanks for the info! That is indeed the first pitch of our climb. We were wondering how anyone could have missed the crack that made the first pitch. Such a fun adventure! Apr 15, 2013
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
Cool looking line- looks like you guys added to Dogleg Crack (which is the first pitch of your route) if you're curious about whether anyone had climbed it before. Probably just the first pitch- congrats on several more!

mountainproject.com/v/dogle… Apr 15, 2013