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Routes in Nordveggen (The North Wall)

Angsten eter sjelen (The Anxiety eats the soul) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A3+
Fjordcruise T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b A2+
Kayser Söze T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A3+
Mamma T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A3+
Nordøst Passasjen (The North East Passage) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A1
Variation to Graceland Ledge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2
Type: Trad, Aid, 3000 ft, 17 pitches, Grade V
FA: Diesen/Gravdal January 1996 11 days of dry winter conditions
Page Views: 48 total, 1/month
Shared By: Ian Hanson on Apr 15, 2013
Admins: Michael Sullivan

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Description

The route follows big/distinct formations, and is easy to follow! Excellent climbing on high quality granite! The rock is superb granite, and not seeing a city, hearing a road, and the modest bolting of the routes contributes to the feeling of adventure.
Shares a start with Mamma and Angsten eter Sjelen. Can be combined with Kayser Söze via the Graceland bivi.

Pitch by pitch:
1. 50m 5.5
2. 50m 5.4
3. 20m 5.8
4. 60m 5.10d Stance in a defined/tight dihedral ca. 2m to the right of Rulehullet
5. 50m 5.10c
6. 45m 5.11b transitions from a left-facing into a right-facing dihedral
7. 30m 5.10d
8. 45m 5.10d climbs a huge dihedral. Stance in a niche in the dihedral, just under a bulge.
9. 50m 5.11d GRACELAND giant bivi ledge! (Can switch over to Kayser Söze from here if desired) The crux of the pitch is the the initial (wet) moves over the bulge, from the previous anchor.
10. 45m 5.10c
11. 60m 5.11a
12. 45m 5.10d
13. 45m 5.11d Sustained steep and difficult climbing up a dihedral that is usually wet.
14. 30m 5.10+ The crux of the pitch is the moves exiting the dihedral.
15. 50m 5.10c Stance on the upper ledge.
16. 55m 5.10c Climb up and to the right, over some blocks, up a thin crack and flake. Traverse in to the dihedral and finish on a nice ledge.
17. 35m 5.6

Location

Shares a start with Mamma and Angsten eter Sjelen. Variations up to and from Graceland exist.

Protection

Lots of cams and wires. Portaledge can be helpful for slower parties.

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