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Jensen Classic

C2+, Trad, TR, Aid, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 3 from 1 vote
FA: F. Gosch and I. Hanson April 3, 2013
International > Europe > Norway > Telemark > Sauherad > Akkerhaugen > Borgaråsnatten > Gosch Spire

Description

FA was climbed aid, but it has been climbed on TR at around 5.11-ish. Climb up to the left-facing dihedral and up through the roof. The crux is pulling through the roof and transitioning into a layback. There are some solid foot holds and a nice sloper on the left side of the dihedral. Move left and onto the arête that leads to the top. Moving onto the arête provides some exciting exposure. A top-rope can be set up by climbing the chimney between the spire and the main wall.

Location

The route starts at the lowest point of the pinnacle, on the east side of the wall.

Protection

Somewhat loose rock in the beginning, but bomber placements from the base of the dihedral. Bring a selection of trad gear up to 3"

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Frederik during the FA
[Hide Photo] Frederik during the FA
Frederik during the first ascent
[Hide Photo] Frederik during the first ascent