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Carnival Crack

5.10d, Trad, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 3.3 from 30 votes
FA: unknown
Washington > Central-E Casca… > Leavenworth > Icicle Creek > Carnival Crag
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Description

Grunt, cuss, bleed and scream your way up the notorious 8" crack. The crux comes in the overhanging section after a near complete rest at a ledge. After getting savage on the overhanging section, the route eases only slightly when the crack becomes vertical. It ain't over till you pull over on top and are fighting back urges to puke. Have fun.

Location

The impressive wide crack seen as you approach.

Protection

Gear to 8" Two shiny bolts on top to rig a top rope.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

michal on lead with big bros
[Hide Photo] michal on lead with big bros
Phat crack
[Hide Photo] Phat crack
do your worst; this rig is the second best way to make yourself puke on your 21st birthday
[Hide Photo] do your worst; this rig is the second best way to make yourself puke on your 21st birthday
Fun route. We set up the TR by climbing feet of strength. The anchors were a couple feet from the each other.
[Hide Photo] Fun route. We set up the TR by climbing feet of strength. The anchors were a couple feet from the each other.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Top roped it clean on took a few tries i kept popping out once. Really cool OW practice. Pretty fun if you like abuse lol

I'd really like to try the lead, anyone know what kinda gear you need I think a 6 may be too small! big bros only? Nov 10, 2016
Jon Nelson
Redmond, WA
[Hide Comment] A TR ascent is certainly a valid ascent. Congratulations on that.

I tried it on TR back in the late 70s and failed.

But if you want the excitement of a lead, but don't have the pro, then have your TR belayer take in the rope at only a few designated spots. Simulated lead, but make sure the rope passes safely over the top without the potential of getting cut. Nov 10, 2016
Hank Thompson
Leavenworth, WA
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] I think the crux is exiting the overhanging part and getting established in the vertical crack after the first horizontal. Jun 24, 2019
Uff Da
Greenwood, Seattle
 
[Hide Comment] I used Shane's #7 BD cam for the wide section and bumped that TR all the way to the top ;) . The tipped out 6 that I attempted to place in the initial wide section failed horribly and wiggled out from getting jostled while I was arm-barring with the force of 1,000 souls above. Try not to shart near the top Feb 24, 2022