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The Toiler
5.12a,
Sport, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches,
Avg: 3.9 from 25
votes
FA: Tai DeVore, Marty Lewis - 9/11
California
> Eastern Sierra
> Bishop Area
> Pine Creek Canyon
> Scheelite Canyo…
> Mustache Wall
Description
A candidate for the best route on the Mustache. Three pitches of quality climbing.
P1: Start on Double Dog Dare. At the 11th bolt continue straight up instead of moving left. Good climbing in the seams with a reachy crux near the top. High quality pitch. 12a, 18 bolts.
P2: An immediate crux leads to an excellent pitch of grooves and patina. Again, good rock and good climbing. 11c, 13 bolts.
P3: More cracks/grooves but with a little less patina. A crux sequence from the hole at the end of the pitch takes one to a great belay station/ledge. 11c, 13 bolts.
Descent:
a) 3 rapps down the route.
or
b) With an 80m, go to the top of Supergrinder. There is only a few feet of rope left, knots advisable. The second rapp does not quite make the ground but deposits one on easily downclimbed terrain at the start of Supergrinder.
Location
Shares the same start as Double Dog Dare.
Protection
Bolts. Mussy anchors at each belay.
Bishop, Ca.