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A-Gape

5.11b, Trad, 120 ft (36 m),  Avg: 2.4 from 8 votes
FA: 1973: Dave Loeks and Joe Bridges
New York > Gunks > Trapps > b. Jackie & friends

Description

Layback up the starting crack up to a pin. Move right to the right-facing flake then up to the top of a left-facing corner. Step right and move up past bulge to a horizontal, then move left to the pointed flake in the tiered roof. Pull the crux roof and climb the face up to below the next overhang. Traverse right to Ape Call  bolted anchor.

Route finding was difficult.

Location

25' right of Pink Laurel, on top of a boulder below a right-leaning crack

Protection

Generally good pro. Crux is well protected.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Ryan Thomas
Brattleboro VT
[Hide Comment] Maybe I read the sequence incorrectly, but I found the crux to be quite difficult for 11b. It could be that it just highlighted a weakness in my technique. Not sure. It seemed like good finger strength and some reach would both be assets. Not even sure why I'm commenting...maybe a function of ego? I'd hate to dissuade any would-be leader from giving it a shot. Dec 4, 2021
Costin Anghel
Clintondale, NY
 
[Hide Comment] If the top were cleaned up a bit and/or a fixed anchor added this could easily be a 3 star route.

As it stands, the top is a bit sandy as you pull the roof and cleaning it is a bit of a pain (though not horrible). Apr 19, 2023
Milt Strickler
Louisville CO
  5.11b
[Hide Comment] I think that Agape was originally 5.10, but a large horn broke off at the lip of the overhang in the late 70s making the route a number grade harder. Hugh Herr and I did this together in 1980, and we both did the crux dynamically. Cool moves over the lip. Apr 30, 2023