Type: Trad, 2300 ft, 19 pitches
FA: A, Dimai J.S. Phillimore A.G.S. Raynor (1899)
Page Views: 225 total · 3/month
Shared By: Rodger Raubach on Apr 13, 2013
Admins: Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath

You & This Route

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The route as done traditionally begins almost directly below the "tit" of rock which lends the route it's name. (Testa = "tit" in Italian). There is a dark and blocky chimney that reaches the scree, but the route begins about 30 feet to it's right, traverses left into the chimne and sumounts a knob to belay #1. Pitches 2 & 3 remain in the chimney (a section of squeeze). Pitch #4 moves right beneath an overhang, then upward to a belay stance; pitch #5 surmounts a small overhang and ends on "Second Ledge," one of the 5 major diagonal ledges crossing the face at intervals. Pitches #6, 7, and 8 stay in an indistinct gully system that ends on "Third ledge." Pitch # 9 is the crux; somewhat friable rock is climbed up to a prominent roof which is surmounted (~ 2 1/2 foot small ceiling); this is a very spectacular set of moves (great photo opportunities!). Belay immediately after reaching a good stance in order to protect the second. Pitch #10 is a short traverse L. into a dihedral which is followed to a secure belay on a knob. Pitches #11, 12 & 13 are somewhat nondescript climbing at lower 5th class and end on "Fourth Ledge." Pitch #14 continues upward to a 2 piton belay stance. Pitch #15 diagonals downward and L. before entering a chimney which is followed through a slightly more difficult set of moves to a thread anchored belay stance. From this point onward the difficulty eases to very easy 5th class and scrambling to the summit ridge.


The route is best reached by parking near the "Putti Institute" in Cortina. Descent is by means of "Fifth Ledge" a rubble covered nightmare descent in rock shoes. Bring some lightweight mountain boots if you like your feet and ankles!
This terminates in a scree gully, and scree walking back to the path leading to a parking area.


Most but not all protection is fixed pitons. Bring a rack with a wide range of nuts and a few cams. More important than anything else is a selection of longer slings for threads and some quickdraws.


Rodger Raubach
Rodger Raubach  
I did this climb in July 1964 as a training climb for longer and harder Dolomite climbing. The lower part of the route is rather unexceptional and is usually avoided by the locals by traversing onto the route by means of "Second Ledge." The "roof pitch" is the sole reason for doing the climb, other than physical conditioning for longer and sustained routes. If I can find my shots of the roof being surmounted I'll post them later! My PG 13 rating is based on rock quality, since there's a lot of friable and fractured junk that gets used as holds. Apr 13, 2013
Rodger Raubach
Rodger Raubach  
Some recent information from mountainproject.com member drunkfox indicates that a massive rockfall took place a few years ago which wiped out much of the "Fifth Ledge Descent." Be advised the descent has changed. Sep 1, 2014