Testa del Bartoldo (Dimai Direct)
Avg: 2 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 2300 ft, 19 pitches|
|FA:||A, Dimai J.S. Phillimore A.G.S. Raynor (1899)|
|Page Views:||202 total · 3/month|
|Shared By:||Rodger Raubach on Apr 13, 2013|
|Admins:||Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath|
DescriptionThe route as done traditionally begins almost directly below the "tit" of rock which lends the route it's name. (Testa = "tit" in Italian). There is a dark and blocky chimney that reaches the scree, but the route begins about 30 feet to it's right, traverses left into the chimne and sumounts a knob to belay #1. Pitches 2 & 3 remain in the chimney (a section of squeeze). Pitch #4 moves right beneath an overhang, then upward to a belay stance; pitch #5 surmounts a small overhang and ends on "Second Ledge," one of the 5 major diagonal ledges crossing the face at intervals. Pitches #6, 7, and 8 stay in an indistinct gully system that ends on "Third ledge." Pitch # 9 is the crux; somewhat friable rock is climbed up to a prominent roof which is surmounted (~ 2 1/2 foot small ceiling); this is a very spectacular set of moves (great photo opportunities!). Belay immediately after reaching a good stance in order to protect the second. Pitch #10 is a short traverse L. into a dihedral which is followed to a secure belay on a knob. Pitches #11, 12 & 13 are somewhat nondescript climbing at lower 5th class and end on "Fourth Ledge." Pitch #14 continues upward to a 2 piton belay stance. Pitch #15 diagonals downward and L. before entering a chimney which is followed through a slightly more difficult set of moves to a thread anchored belay stance. From this point onward the difficulty eases to very easy 5th class and scrambling to the summit ridge.
LocationThe route is best reached by parking near the "Putti Institute" in Cortina. Descent is by means of "Fifth Ledge" a rubble covered nightmare descent in rock shoes. Bring some lightweight mountain boots if you like your feet and ankles!
This terminates in a scree gully, and scree walking back to the path leading to a parking area.