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Routes in Bracksiek's Pillar

Alpinista Sista S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
B Bro T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Coo Coo Cachoo S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cool Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crack Class T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Eye-Full Tower S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
High Center S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
L'il Buckeroo S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lucy in the Sky T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mano Izquierda S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mid-Eye Collision T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Oatmeal Stout T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pre-Emptive Strike S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Twilight Years S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, Sport, 250 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Not Known
Page Views: 1,254 total, 22/month
Shared By: ImplicitD on Apr 12, 2013
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

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BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING Details

Description

By the end of this route I was calling it the Chocolate Rib. That should be its name.

This is in the Bingham Guide to the area.

First pitch melow 5.8.

Second pitch is tricky and steeper...cruxy.

Third pitches is Full Value 5.9. Maybe 5.9+. Exciting trad climbing leads to bolted slabby arete rib feature sweet patina. Rap from chains.

Hardest 5.9 on Bracksieks Pillar.

We had two 60 meter ropes for descending. We rapped back to top of Lil Buckaroo in one rap.

Location

First pitch is Lil Buckaroo Route which is 5.8. Find in Dave Bingham's Castle Rocks A Climbers Guide. Mano Izquierda 10.a climbs a bolt line to the left. Aim for the Chocolate Rib.

Protection

Mostly bolted, except the first 40 ft of pitch 3 5.8. One each to 2 inches will definitely suffice and prob be too much. I dont really remember exactly.

All Bolted Belays. Cant remember but one each to 2 inch will definitely suffice.

Photos

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kalockwood
SLC, UT
  5.9+
kalockwood   SLC, UT
  5.9+
Climbed route on 10/6/13. Climbed in two pitches. Very fun second pitch. Reminds me of Red Rib. Placed a #4 camalot in the large crack on the first pitch. Placed a #1 and #2 camalot on the runout section of pitch 2. Oct 10, 2013
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
 
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
 
Probably my favorite route I've done at the Castle! We did it in two pitches with a 60m and the top pitch is fantastic! I was glad to have some small cams and nuts to supplement the bolts. 3 single rope raps down. Sep 13, 2013