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Routes in Awesome Roof

A Walk with Kirky S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Dinner with Dracula S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Freeloader S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Highway to Heaven S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pay 3 (subroute of Pay at the Pump) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pay 4 (subroute of Pay at the Pump) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pay 5 (subroute of Pay at the Pump) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Pay 6 (subroute of Pay at the Pump) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pay 7 (subroute of Pay at the Pump) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pay 8 (subroute of Pay at the Pump) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pay at the Pump S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Turtle Man S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Vanilla Sky S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Clayton Reagan, Matt Twyman
Page Views: 1,739 total, 31/month
Shared By: Clint Walker ATX on Apr 11, 2013
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

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Description

12 bolts (9 are permadraws), NO ANCHORS.

Start on furthest wall you face approaching the area. Climb to large, body size, crack. Follow long crack traversing roof.

Some say that each bolt is worthy of a different grade as you progress. Ratings range from 11b to 12b as you get further into the route.

Location

Climb starts at base of small wall the the right of a large boulder and left of the slopey dihedral.

Protection

Permanent draws along roof.

Photos

Clint Walker ATX
Austin, TX
 
Clint Walker ATX   Austin, TX
 
Lizzzz,

I think the 13b rating is topping out the route after clipping the last perma. A few people I've spoken to say that just clipping the blue-neck perma is around 12d due to pump. Pulling the face after that is disheartening to say the least after the pump of the first 40 feet. Feb 10, 2016
Lizzzz
5.12d
Lizzzz  
5.12d
Curious where they got the 13b grade -- this is a cool route, no doubt, but the guidebook says 12d. Last move (from the end jug on the 12b to the crimp and clipping) feels about v5... Feb 8, 2016
This thing is crazy. Even though it's essentially the same move again, nowhere else in Texas can you find a route that pumps you out so consistently. There are no rests, just pumps. Dec 4, 2015