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Routes in Center Buttress

Big Jugs T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Edge of Fire T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Great Escape T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sentinel Buttress T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Super Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 333 total, 6/month
Shared By: russellHOBART on Apr 11, 2013
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Description

Well-protected, powerful crux near the ground. After the crux I protected out left for the next move. Then go up through the smooth dihedral to gain good pro. Move left under roof until you get to weakness and head up to crow's nest belay/rap anchor.

Location

The crack just left of Super Direct.

Protection

Up to #2 C4 with an assortment of smaller pieces. Watch the rope drag. Double ropes suggested

Photos

Emil Briggs
  5.9
Emil Briggs  
  5.9
The move is about the same difficulty as Super Direct but I agree the pro doesn't inspire the same confidence as that on Super Direct. Sep 30, 2013
Matt Westlake
Durham, NC
Matt Westlake   Durham, NC
I tried this a while back and ran into a lot of sketchy loose rock between the start and the area below the big roof one presumably traverses left under. I ended up moving right to the Super Direct crack and setting a belay to get away and finished on that route.

I wasn't completely sold on the pro at the start and traversed in via an easy 5.6ish unprotected path from the left. Out of curiosity, how did this start roof move compare to Super Direct? Sep 2, 2013