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Routes in Center Buttress

Big Jugs T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Great Escape T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sentinel Buttress T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Super Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Greg Demeter in 1980 or 1981. Tim Fisher was there to see it.
Page Views: 383 total · 6/month
Shared By: russellHOBART on Apr 11, 2013 with updates from Greg Demeter
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

Well-protected, powerful crux near the ground. After the crux I protected out left for the next move. Then go up through the smooth dihedral to gain good pro. Move left under roof until you get to weakness and head up to crow's nest belay/rap anchor.

Note - The original attempt was to do one aid move using a cliff hanger on a flake just above the middle of the roof. The flake immediately broke loose while testing it. The original route passed to the right of the roof, not the left.

Location

The crack just left of Super Direct.

Protection

Up to #2 C4 with an assortment of smaller pieces. Watch the rope drag. Double ropes suggested

Photos

Matt Westlake
Durham, NC
Matt Westlake   Durham, NC
I tried this a while back and ran into a lot of sketchy loose rock between the start and the area below the big roof one presumably traverses left under. I ended up moving right to the Super Direct crack and setting a belay to get away and finished on that route.

I wasn't completely sold on the pro at the start and traversed in via an easy 5.6ish unprotected path from the left. Out of curiosity, how did this start roof move compare to Super Direct? Sep 2, 2013
Emil Briggs
  5.9
Emil Briggs  
  5.9
The move is about the same difficulty as Super Direct but I agree the pro doesn't inspire the same confidence as that on Super Direct. Sep 30, 2013

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