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Darkness on the Edge

5.7+, Trad, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 2.8 from 26 votes
FA: Ed Maggert, Van Krussow
N Carolina > 1. Southern Mou… > Cedar Rock > Cedar Rock - North
Warning Access Issue: 2023 seasonal raptor closure (January 15th-August 15th) DetailsDrop down

Description

Climb the acute corner feature sort of in the middle of the wall. Crux is getting off the ground. Protects well throughout. There is a second pitch that climbs the steep slab above the corner.

Protection

Rappell from a tree off to the left.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Birds eye view of the pitch
[Hide Photo] Birds eye view of the pitch
unknown 5.7
[Hide Photo] unknown 5.7

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

John Braun
Hendersonville, NC
[Hide Comment] The tree on the left is rooted in steep steep dirt behind a perched boulder. As i was setting up to rap, i was exposing the roots of the tree. It does not seem sustainable to continue using the tree, plus you lose some good climbing. It seems more natural to belay from the top of the pillar, but that would require new bolts. Jun 17, 2013
Mike R
[Hide Comment] The FA party has granted permission for a two bolt anchor to be placed up on the ledge. Go for it if you have the proper means. Nov 23, 2013
JimLayhey
[Hide Comment] Great short corner, wish it was longer. I replaced the old webbing with new. I'd be happy to replace it with some bolts. Sep 24, 2015
Heath Alexander
Asheville, NC
[Hide Comment] I added a 2 bolt anchor on 4/23/16. It is directly above this route to provide clean rope movement for top roping. It can also serve Forget Me Not. The previous rappel anchor was disturbing. Apr 24, 2016
Benandstuff
Winston-Salem, NC
 
[Hide Comment] I tried to do the second pitch of this climb (5.8) as described in Mike Reardon's guide. Can anybody familiar with this cliff tell me what I ended up climbing? I ended up doing this, about 150 feet:

-Step left at belay and pass some featured rock up to a bolt at ~25ft
-Continue up leaning flared crack, gaining some pro where the crack allows
-Get totally confused about how the route goes over the roof. Dirt everywhere. Easy features waaaaay to the left where the roof ends but seemed so far out as to be off route, also dirty as sin. Step right ~15 ft to another bolt.
-Go up to the cleanest and most featured part of the roof. A big jug, knobs, pinches, and some protectable eyebrows let you get over the bulge easily enough. Also incredibly fun.
-Follow a left-leaning crack (as it is the only pro)
-Find out the crack ends soon in a hideously dirty mess of lichen and pine needles. Make a #2 placement slung very long and step right to a protectionless (but much cleaner) slab face.
-Climb scary 5.8/9 slab up to some muddy moss and decent condition tat on a big tree.
-No bolts anywhere despite the book showing two sets
-Rap 100 ft to dandy line anchors
-Rap 100 ft to ground

I also saw some tat (looked unplanned, but kind of new) way out left on a bush island above the roof Sep 25, 2017