Snuff the Rooster

This route is pictured in the new Dixie Cragger as route #9 in the Islands. Too bad I failed to notice the PG13 rating on Mountain Project. Bolt 2 was so far left that clipping was extremely awkward. Bolt three was too far right. At 5'8", we couldn't reach it without climbing left and up above the bolt, putting us at risk of decking on the ledge. Husband and I both thought the bolt locations made this route a lot more scary than fun. Apr 4, 2016

The crux of this route is the moves around the first two clips on some shitty crimps, but after that, it's fairly juggy with some deep pockets. Some of the clips are in awkward places from the holds, but the holds and feet are positive enough to keep the risk low. Hardest part of the route for me was getting over the fear factor. If you make it past the first two clips don't bail because the finish is just above the tree line which gives you the nicest view of the valley and lake on the mountain. If you're comfortable on 5.10/11 this isn't a terrible route, but may not be the best to push your grade. (I'm 5'11 with a +3 ape index so this is probably not great for shorter climbers). Mar 5, 2018