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Routes in The Islands

Fake Plastic Trees S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flies in the Vaseline S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Julory S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little Bastard S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Little Jerk T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Peanut, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
R.I.P. S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Shrimp Dude S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Snuff the Rooster S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Thin's Bottom Bitch S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thin's Daddy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Thin's Evil Twin S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
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Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: James Dobbs
Page Views: 595 total · 9/month
Shared By: Claymsmith on Apr 10, 2013
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

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Brandy Walters
  5.11b PG13
Brandy Walters  
  5.11b PG13
This route is pictured in the new Dixie Cragger as route #9 in the Islands. Too bad I failed to notice the PG13 rating on Mountain Project. Bolt 2 was so far left that clipping was extremely awkward. Bolt three was too far right. At 5'8", we couldn't reach it without climbing left and up above the bolt, putting us at risk of decking on the ledge. Husband and I both thought the bolt locations made this route a lot more scary than fun. Apr 4, 2016
The crux of this route is the moves around the first two clips on some shitty crimps, but after that, it's fairly juggy with some deep pockets. Some of the clips are in awkward places from the holds, but the holds and feet are positive enough to keep the risk low. Hardest part of the route for me was getting over the fear factor. If you make it past the first two clips don't bail because the finish is just above the tree line which gives you the nicest view of the valley and lake on the mountain. If you're comfortable on 5.10/11 this isn't a terrible route, but may not be the best to push your grade. (I'm 5'11 with a +3 ape index so this is probably not great for shorter climbers). Mar 5, 2018

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