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The Engagement

5.10, Sport, 110 ft (33 m),  Avg: 3.8 from 32 votes
FA: Mike Lilygren 1993
S Dakota > Needles Of Rush… > Mt Rushmore Nat… > Emancipation > Dire Spire
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Description

Super classic Rushmore 5.10 that may rival 'Deja Vu Prophecy'. Great exposure way above the highway on a steepening slab. Start in a short dihedral on a big ledge just left of a large block that sits at the bottom left corner of the overhanging orange face. Be careful of loose blocks! Finger to hand size gear is nice to have for reaching the first bolt. Link the bolts straight up, right of crescent arete, to a small point. From here you could finish out the Conn route to the top or rap into 'Snakebite Evangelist' for a sweet top-rope.

Location

NW corner. Bolted black face left of large streaked wall that faces the road. One 70m rope rap. A 60m cuts it close.

Protection

11 bolts
.5-#1 BD (optional)
Chain anchors

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Climbers on the Engagement/Dire Spire June 8, 2019. If this is you I have a few more I can send you.
[Hide Photo] Climbers on the Engagement/Dire Spire June 8, 2019. If this is you I have a few more I can send you.
John Dobbe coming up to the end of this route.
[Hide Photo] John Dobbe coming up to the end of this route.
Dire Spire from the road. The engagement goes up the black face to the left of the orange blotch.
[Hide Photo] Dire Spire from the road. The engagement goes up the black face to the left of the orange blotch.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

EVAN HAYS
[Hide Comment] Spectacular route. Thought I'd mention that a BD .5 with a long sling comes in handy to minimize the distance (20 ft) between the first two bolts. Aug 22, 2014
Jimmy D
Rapid City
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] A 60m just BARELY makes it down. Aug 7, 2015
ShanJ2me
Black Hills, SD
 
[Hide Comment] A super fun route!, Go right after 1st bolt (placing a finger size piece in the layback crack will give you piece of mind getting to second bolt). Not your typical crystal pinching route- holds are very interesting-- I really enjoy this route!! a 70 meter rope was NICE to have!! Oct 18, 2015
chris tregge
Madison WI
  5.10
[Hide Comment] I suppose this goes without saying, but since this is listed as a sport route and you don't really need gear for the climbing, one may wish to bring a small rack to anchor the belayer...

One comment about a single 60M rope and this route: As I was top belaying my follower up, the middle mark on my rope went through my belay device when my climber had climbed about 10-15 feet up from the ledge. As not all 60M ropes are created equal, I probably would err on the side of trailing an additional rope up for a double rope rap to be absolutely sure you will make it back down. YMMV.

Excellent route. Jun 13, 2016