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Routes in Ben Nevis

Hadrian's Wall Direct WI4
Orion Direct WI3+
Point Five Gully WI4
Tower Ridge WI2 M2
Vanishing Gully WI4
Zero Gully WI3 R
Type: Ice, 1000 ft, 6 pitches, Grade IV
FA: unknown
Page Views: 207 total, 4/month
Shared By: Nick Russell on Apr 9, 2013
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell

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Description

A sustained ice climb, especially in the first two pitches. It is never really steep, but it's a long way before you get a rest! Above this, the climbing eases significantly until a steep sting in the tail just before the top.

The climb starts up an obvious ice smear down and to the left of Point Five gully.

P1. Set off up the ice smear. A single 60m pitch won't get you to above the steep section, but a few slight easings on the way up make good belay points. Belay off screws out of the firing line of the next pitch.

P2. Continue through the steep exit to a ramp below a chimney

P3. Climb the chimney (some big nuts and hexes on the right) to where it opens out into a wide gully

At this point, you can trend right (slightly harder) or continue up the gully to the left, to a junction with Observatory Ridge. Several easier pitches get you to a steeper (and somewhat surprising) exit onto the summit plateau.

Depending on how you pitch out the top section, there are normally about 7 pitches total. Above the chimney it feels like it should be over quickly but it just keeps going! An excellent climb, and well worth the effort.

Location

The obvious ice smear to the left of Point 5 gully

Protection

Screws all the way up. Some fixed gear in the upper pitches, and a few nut and hex placements can be excavated, especially in the pitch 3 chimney.

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